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Which lenses and 2nd Camera

Discussion in 'General Equipment Chat & Advice' started by SAW, Jan 7, 2019.

  1. SAW

    SAW Active Member


    I already own a modded 600D that I use for astrophotography it is my first ever dslr I've owned. I normally use it connected to my telescope but I would like to start using lenses with it on a smaller tracking mount which I've already got but I really don't know what lenses to buy ? Just bought the 50mm f1.8 to start with but would like some more lenses.

    I'm also looking to get a second dslr, probably to still use for astrophotography but also general photography, on holiday some wildlife etc so I also need some lenses for this.

    Should I still go for a crop sensor ? I am quite keen on the 77D but heard the 80D is a good choice. I do think a full frame is out of my budget even used, I'd rather get a decent low shutter count crop sensor.

    Some lenses I have been looking at are,

    EF 200mm f2.8
    EF-S 24mm f2.8
    EF-S 10-22mm f3.5-4.5
    EF 300mm f4

    I'm really not sure what lenses and obviously I can't buy all this in one go and I'd rather buy ones that I'm going to keep and always use.

  2. Andrew Flannigan

    Andrew Flannigan Well-Known Member

  3. GeoffR

    GeoffR Well-Known Member

    Generally it is better to have two identical bodies if possible as that eliminates mistakes due to differences in handling.
    Roger Hicks likes this.
  4. SAW

    SAW Active Member

    So another 600D ? Isn't it a bit of an old camera now ?
  5. Snorri

    Snorri Well-Known Member

    It is few years old yes, but still canĀ“t find any reason to upgrade mine.
  6. GeoffR

    GeoffR Well-Known Member

    As they say "there is many a good tune played on an old fiddle". I am not sure the 600D is in the Stradivarius class but if it does the job why replace it.
    SAW likes this.
  7. Bazarchie

    Bazarchie Well-Known Member

    You can buy the FF 6D used for a very reasonable price.

    I have a 7Dii, which is very good. Reports on the 80 D suggests it has a better sensor.

    Suggest you try before you buy as the handling will be different as mentioned above.
    SAW likes this.
  8. Benchista

    Benchista Which Tyler

    I would actually strongly recommend in these circumstances that you get a different body to your existing one; otherwise, it's far too easy to get them mixed up, which matters if one is modified and the other isn't. In my film days, I always used different bodies for different films I was using at the same time, and these days, my full spectrum converted camera is a different colour to my normal ones - makes it impossible to get confused. I did get very confused for a while when I was using a 450D converted to IR, whilst my wife used a normal one. Pretty much all Canon DSLRs have similar handling, so it's rarely a problem switching between different bodies anyway. Same bodies is a great idea if you just want to use different lenses on the two bodies, but not good at all in your scenario IMHO.
  9. Snorri

    Snorri Well-Known Member

    Good point.
  10. PeteRob

    PeteRob Well-Known Member

    I can't help with the sky side. I guess you have to choose the angle of view that you want to cover and work out the lens that gives that. Most of the posts on here in the past on that subject have tended to suggest the widest view to include the most sky possible.

    For general photography a good lens for a canon crop sensor is said to be the 15-85 EF-S. This covers most of the common focal length ranges. For full-frame (which I use) the 24-105 IS L is the closest.

    Wildlife is a broad topic but if you want "wild" then practically speaking no lens is ever long enough and experience takes the serious slowly into the realm of long lenses - which are generally too heavy to carry around. Many people go for zoom lenses that are 70-300, or rather heavier, 100-400.

    When I started out I got the 300 F4 IS L and a x1.4 converter on the basis that this would be better quality than a zoom used at its full focal length and a bit lighter (maybe). I later got a 400 F5.6 L (non- IS) which is a bit better/lighter than the combination. These are good but not very flexible for, say, walking around a zoo where a zoom is more useful. The 100-400 mk II is very good but very heavy, you'll know if you take it for a long hike. If standing in one place for a long time to take pictures, e.g. an event, and using a lens of 200 mm or longer I'd get a monopod to take the weight.

    I'll ask my son who has 2 absolutely identical 6Ds - one IR and one normal - how he tells them apart! The advice to have two of the same is useful for people working under pressure - e.g. two cameras in action at once with different lenses on them and swapping back and forward - but I don't see it as essential. I have two different Canon cameras, one for birding and one for general and swapping between them is generally trouble free. I occasionally get mixed up if I have to go into the menu system as they are different generations but no real problems.
  11. GeoffR

    GeoffR Well-Known Member

    Excellent point Nick, I had missed the word "modded" at the beginning of the original post and in the circumstances I agree completely.
  12. Petrochemist

    Petrochemist Well-Known Member

    In a rapid fire situation (professional shooting & the like) perhaps. But for amateurs its FAR better to get a different body with complementary abilities.
    For astrophotography sensitivity is king, so a newer body would have huge advantages.

    I would recommend a mirrorless body except for a memory of Sony's 'star eater' noise reduction. If this issue is now corrected or not an issue on other mirrorless systems then it's IMO definitely the way to go. Mirrorless cameras are much easier to adapt to (my Newtonian does reach infinity focus with a DSLR, but can with most mirrorless bodies).
  13. GeoffR

    GeoffR Well-Known Member

    Sorry but I don't agree. For general photography where the requirement is either back-up or different lenses, identical bodies make for less confusion and a painless transition. However, if you are happy to adapt on the fly, go for it.
    A specialist body for a specialist application makes good sense but if it is also to be used for general photography there may be problems. As SAW already has a modified body I would assume that the second body is for general photography and thus may not have any advantage over the modified body, depending on the modification/s applied.
    I assume the word "not" escaped. I would imagine that not being able to focus at infinity is a significant consideration for astrophotography. I do however wonder how the shorter battery life of a mirrorless body will affect its use in this application.
  14. Petrochemist

    Petrochemist Well-Known Member

    Your quite right (I clearly need to improve my proof reading) and the occasions for close focus in astrophotography are indeed rare!
    Battery life isn't an issue from what I've heard. If you have a motorized telescope (needed for even short exposures of the stars at reasonable magnification) then you already have the need for big batteries - powering the camera from these is pretty trivial. My first attempt at astrophotography was with a DSLR & had to be abandoned when the freshly charged batteries died, long before I got any decent results.
  15. SAW

    SAW Active Member

    Thanks all.

    Still haven't got a second camera body yet but quite keen on the 7D Mark ii.

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