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Where to start developing.

Discussion in 'Everything Film' started by nastypiranha, Jun 22, 2014.

  1. taxor

    taxor Well-Known Member

    I really hate to be the bearer of bad news but Ilford XP2 needs C41 (colour) development and just to throw another spanner in the works, Ilford PQ universal isn't really recommended as a roll film developer. For the film, get some Ilford HP5 or FP4 (if you prefer a slower film) and some film specific developer such as Ilford DD-X, Ilford LC29 or Rodinal. These are all liquid concentrates but there are many powdered versions available also.
     
  2. AlexMonro

    AlexMonro Old Grand Part Deux

    Oops - XP2, although a black & white film, is actually unconventional in that it's designed to be developed in the same way as colour print film (C41 process) - so called "Chromagenic film", it's actually colour film in which the colours happen to all be shades of grey! :).

    http://www.ilfordphoto.com/products/product.asp?n=11&t=Black+&+White+Films

    However, some people seem to have successfully developed it in a fairly conventional B&W developer (T-Max), despite Ilford and others saying it's not recommended.

    Thread on PhotoNet B&W forum:

    http://photo.net/black-and-white-photo-film-processing-forum/002a1z

    It might be simpler if you can hold off until you can get some conventional B&W film (HP5, HP4, Tri-X etc.), and perhaps some film developer (ID-11, Ilfosol 3 etc.), rather than the PQ print developer. You'll get more predictable results - though XP2 in PQ should give you something, development times would be a guess, and goodness knows what the contrast would be like).

    Hope this isn't too much of a setback.
     
  3. nastypiranha

    nastypiranha Well-Known Member

    Thank you all again, I proceeded anyway just to see what would happen and get a bit of experience of loading the reel, mixing the chemicals etc gave the dev 8 minutes, stop 30 seconds and fixer 5 minutes and washed with water for 4 minutes and all i ended up with was a purple tint film.

    So once i get some hp5 and new dev, i'll be ready :)
     
  4. nastypiranha

    nastypiranha Well-Known Member

    It's not been a great day, now need to add a better developing tank to the list.

    this was about the best of a bad bunch using the XP2 and PQ

    [​IMG]

    this was 9minutes for the dev, 3minutes for stop and 9 minutes for the fixer.
     
  5. AlexMonro

    AlexMonro Old Grand Part Deux

    Better than I feared - you could always follow in Kamepa's style! :)

    It's actually quite a nice photo.

    3 minutes for the stop is probably more than it needs - it just needs to get in contact with the film to neautralise, or "stop", the action of the developer. Many people don't bother with stop, just give a quick rinse with water, and rely on the fixer to properly stop development. Last year, when I did my first roll for years, I didn't actually have any proper stop bath, so I just put a splash (maybe 5%) of white vinegar in water (stop bath is usually mostly acetic acid) and used that - worked a treat.

    On the second roll, I learned that trying to re-use Ilfosol 3 is not a good idea... :)
     
  6. Kamepa

    Kamepa Well-Known Member

    That looks great :)

    Can you rescue the others. I found phone editing apps are the best quickest way to rescue negatives. Try using google drive to get the scans to your phone. Anyway just an idea.
     
    Last edited: Jul 12, 2014
  7. Kamepa

    Kamepa Well-Known Member

    OK I think I might have a possible solution. It does depend on the state of your spiral/spool. If it is dirty with chemicals stains from years of use you could try cleaning it in warm/hot water with detergent and a tooth brush. Spend a good half hour gently trying to clean any muck/dirt/stains out of the grooves. Especially around the locking ball bearing part. Be careful mind you don't want to use force and damage the pesky thing!
     
  8. PeteRob

    PeteRob Well-Known Member

    Umm. it was new - arrived that morning - was it not? Although reading back there was an old spiral. Did anyone mention to cut the film leadin off? I think a 36 exposure used to be pretty much fill the spiral
     
    Last edited: Jul 16, 2014
  9. Kamepa

    Kamepa Well-Known Member

    I was thinking along the lines of the Paterson tank as posted in the photo somewhere in the thread.
     
  10. PeteRob

    PeteRob Well-Known Member


    Yes, I actually went back and edited my post which was originally nust the first sentence.

    The Patterson website says only that the multi-reel tanks are supplied without reels - the universal and standard tanks come complete so my first thought was using an old reel was in some way perverse.


    It is a long time since I did any developing but in all this thread I don't think anyone said to cut the film lead square before feeding.
     
  11. Kamepa

    Kamepa Well-Known Member

    I normally cheat with 35mm film. I know the feel of the film coming off the take up spool in camera. I know dangerous assumption but very useful tip. So most of the time my film comes out of camera with the leader still outside the cartridge. I then cut film end so it is square, then rounding off corners and feed it into the spool/spiral before it goes into the daylight changing bag. Then after loading spool I rip the film out of the cartridge! No cutting inside the daylight changing bag :)
     
  12. PeteE

    PeteE Well-Known Member

    and some SCISSORS, BAND-AIDS and brush up on SWEARWORDS ---
     
    Last edited: Jul 17, 2014
  13. PeteE

    PeteE Well-Known Member

    and some SCISSORS, BAND-AIDS and brush up on your SWEAR-WORDS ---
     
  14. AlexMonro

    AlexMonro Old Grand Part Deux

    My excuse is that recently I've only been doing 120, and when I last did my own 35mm mublety-something years ago, it was from a Zenit, which required you to cut the film leader square before loading the camera!

    It made reloading cassettes from bulk film rolls easier, though. :)
     

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