Discussion in 'Everything Film' started by peterg22, Aug 28, 2005.
But which DIN is it oh connosewer?
Why, "The system of stating emulsion speeds, as laid down by the Deutsche Industrie Norm" (to quote the Focal Encyclopedia of Photography, rev. Desk Edn 1969 of course.
Yes, I know, that's why I said I liked it . . . .
Actually ISO didn't adopt the ASA standard, or indeed the DIN standard. In a classical compromise, they adopted both!
For the film speed we're talking about, the ASA rating is 100, the DIN rating is 21°, and the ISO rating is 100/21°. I.e. a combination of the two.
Which is why an earlier poster saw some Fuji film designated ISO 200/24º. It is not strictly correct to say a film is ISO 200 (or even 200 ISO). Even though lots of people do......
try 7day shop .com they do film, Mathers and Discount films you will find them all in a.p classified section.
It is good to know that someone regards film as superior which is just what is is!
There are several 100 ISO films around, but don't rely on high street stores! I went to my local Jessops the other day and they had gone from having a reasonable choice of colour and b/w neg and slide film to having virtually no stock, despite the fact that they still sell 35mm film cameras! There are many good mail order suppliers advertised in AP (I've often used a company called 'Mailshots').
Anyway, here are some good 100 ISO print films:
Agfa Optima 100 - described as having "High, yet natural colour saturation with outstanding grain and very fine detail excellent sharpness. A superb choice for landscape and architectural photography and for where images are to be heavily enlarge".
Agfa Ultra 100 - described as having "Greatest possible colour saturation, exposure tolerance, grain and reproduction of skin tones. Ultra 100 is the right film for all those who require ultra high colour saturation in their pictures especially where there is low contrast in overcast skies, etc.
Fujicolor Reala 100 - described as being "Perfect for capturing totally natural flesh tones and colours. Designed specifically to reproduce subtle skin tone and the delicate pastel shades".
Fujicolor Superia 100 - described as having "Superfine grain and a clarity of colour. Ideal for photography on sunny days and brightly-lit conditions. Uses Fujifilms 4th colour layer technology, which improves colours even under artificial lighting conditions".
Konica Centuria Super 100 - described as having "Incredibly fine, even grain colour print film that provides the fastest actual speed and finest grain in its class...exceptionally fine grain, clarity, sharpness and colour brilliance".
Konica Super VX100 - described as having "Ultra-fine grain colour print film offering brilliant colour reproduction and sharp rich gradient expression. From highlights to shadows VX100 stabilises colour balance and offers excellent results under a wide range of exposure conditions".
Hope that helps!
The reason so few 100 are sold on the high street is the majority of buyers are snappers, the UK is bl***y grey most of the year, and the person then returns the film complaining the pictures are too dark/out of focus, because they dont understand what ISO means when they buy it.
So they are handed 400 film most of the year and 200 on a good day in August.
A little late, but I've just been and looked it up, cos I always thought Reala was their finest grain film. The fuji website says 160c has an "RMS granularity" of 3* (no idea what the star represents but I think smaller number means finer grain) and Reala has 4, therefore 160c is marginally sharper. Apparently.
Finer grain doesn't necessarily mean a 'sharper' film. Sharpness has more to do with acutance, and it's quite common for a film with finer grain than another to have poorer acutance.
Try www.7dayshop.com . It's not high street, but they are currently offering Fuji Reala 100 ASA 36exp for £1.89 and Fuji Superia 100 ASA 36 exp for £1.10
I have just received my first CD and I was very pleasantly surprised to see how good the images were. The image size is 1536x1024 Pixels and the processing was done by Directfoto. The CD cost me £2.49. The pictures are better than the average digital camera could do, especially those taken indoors with flash, but my flashgun has a Guide No. 38/100ASA, which is about 4 times as powerful than the built in varieties.
Yeah thats still a fairly low res.
The pictures may be better than a digital, but if youre only taking certain bits of information from them on the scan you lose that.
Its OK for smallish prints, thats fine, but I want to be able to blow them up to 8 x 12 or even 12 x 18...
7Day Shop are advertising Konica VX 100 ASA VERY CHEEEEEPP at the moment! I would get some if I hadn't won 10 rolls Fuji 100 Superia in the Pentax magazine and still have plenty of Konica as well. It's VERY GOOD FILLUM. The professionals doing 'Makeover Portraits' in the Philippines use Konica VX 100 with a soft-focus filter over a Nikon FM2 and get very good results. PS use lots of Konica VX 400 too.
It would be wasted on me, because my screen cannot be set much above that and the printer might print at a slightly higher definition, but not much. However, I cropped just one face out of a group photograph and printed it on a A4. Had I printed the whole of that shot it would have been approximately 6 feet X 4.5 feet. It was very grainy, but from a normal viewin distance for a print of that size, say 6 feet, it did not look too bad.
Do you know what is the maximum resolution obtainable from a full 35mm negative and 100ASA film in tems of Mega Pixels?
Sorry, youre losing me here...your screen cannot be set much above what? Your screen isnt really relevant, unless youre never intending to print these pictures, in which case an absolutely minimum resolution would be fine...
The printer definition is nothing to do with it either - (those are dpi ie dots per inch, not ppi which is pixels per inch) and it just means how many dots per inch the printer will print out what it already knows at. So if it has 100 pixels in its memory it can print those 100 pixels at (for arguments sake) 10 dots per inch or a million dots per inch - it still only has 10 pixels to show you.
Well exactly! It was "very grainy" and you "had to look at it from six feet away"! This is why I say that a resolution of 1536x1024 is fairly low. I would want my scan to be good enough for me to look at it from a distance of two or three feet at, say, 12x18 if Im lucky and it still to be pin sharp. If it isnt theres not much point me scanning it, I might as well print direct from the film and get a pin sharp print...any scan is always going to be losing you information!
This image I have in front of me now is 3072 x 2034 and would be OK viewed at 8x12 or so right in front of me.
Sorry if Ive misread what you were trying to say or anything...I dont know a huge amount about this myself but as I said I dont think most labs scans are good enough for anything above about 5x7...plus its pointless if youve got the neg anyway youre always going to lose/change info...
Check www.metrocolourlab.com They do "develop and scan to CD" at three levels - 4Mb, 8Mb and 17Mb. I have not tried them. Just saw their advertisement in Practical Photography.
There is still plenty of 100 speed film about (I'm glad I'm not the only one who still says ASA ). Boots and Jessops both have it and you will be amazed at the prices you will be able to replace your FM2 for these days.
Sorry for the late reply - have been away. I normally have them done by Boots, but the quality's consistently poor so I've bought myself an Epson 4490 and am now doing it myself.
Yeah I would recomend scanning yourself, Just because you get the control and its cheaper.
Fujifilm NPH ISO 400 is better than the ISO 100 films of 20 years ago.
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