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Sigma 35 mm 1.4 art lense

Discussion in 'Lens Matters' started by jelibeans95, Mar 27, 2021.

  1. jelibeans95

    jelibeans95 In the Stop Bath

    So I just bought my new sigma lense, and the guys I bought I from recommended me to buy some filters with it. Are they really necessary with an art lense ? I’m a little new to this so please help me out ! And thank you :)
  2. SqueamishOssifrage

    SqueamishOssifrage Well-Known Member

    If your camera is digital, the only filters of any use are a circular polarizer or a protection filter (UV or similar) but opinions vary as the their value. Just about every other filter can be emulated in software.
  3. nimbus

    nimbus Well-Known Member

    Filters=profit for the dealer.
  4. PeteRob

    PeteRob Well-Known Member

    People have mixed feelings about filters.

    “Protection” - usually UV or plain - filters have some benefit if you are in a dusty or wet (especially sea spray) atmosphere and constantly wiping the lens to keep it clean. Some lens are not considered “weatherproof” without a clear filter fitted but that’s usually for pretty extreme conditions. Generally they don’t offer a lot of protection, they’ll break if you bash them, and a lens hood that has a bit of “give” in it is better able to absorb shock. A filter may reduce the efficiency of a bayonet lens hood because it brings the glass surface further forward so that it is less well shaded so there is more chance of flare. I used to always fit a UV filter as a hangover from film days where a skylight 1A filter was a fairly standard thing to have on the lens.

    “Effects” filters are pretty archaic now. Almost anything can be better done in software these days. Pick up a teach yourself film photography book and there will be pages on filters. For mono film work red, green, yellow and blue filters were used for contrast adjustment but, unless you have a mono-only digital camera, there is no point. “Special effects” filters such as starburst filters are still used by some but the novelty wears off. Once you’ve seen one ...

    Polarising filters - one can be useful for reducing reflections and enhancing contrast in the sky. There is up to a 5/3 stop of light loss. I carry one but hardly ever use it. Most of my lenses have the same filter thread.

    Graduated filters - usually a slot in type - they go in a holder on the front - can be useful for landscape. They darken across the filter so you can control a bright sky against a dark foreground and have a lower contrast image. These can largely emulated in software. I’ve got a few very expensive Lee filters but I can’t say that I use them.

    Neutral density filters : these cut light out. There is a big fan base for very dark filters which let you use long exposure tines in daylight. This is usually to average out movement, most often in water, so seas go all flat and white water goes all milky. Again unless you are a true fan it’s a bit novelty - seen one seen ‘em all sort of thing. You can tell that I’m not a big fan, I like waves.

    Soft filters - again you can do it in software. Used to be used in portrait work to not show up skin blemishes so much and give an “ethereal” look. Today there are packages that’ll banish spots with a click and clarity adjustments are trivial to do in software.
    ChrisNewman likes this.
  5. Mark101

    Mark101 Well-Known Member

    This explains why I have a massive collection of Cokin Filters in a box under a bed in the spare room which haven't seen the light of day since about 2006 ! :(
  6. Michal

    Michal Member

    You don't need any filters. I've had the lens for few years now and it's brilliant. I use it at weddings a lot. Never had any filters on it. I con't even use the hood, I don't mind a bit of a flare every so often.
  7. IvorETower

    IvorETower Little Buttercup

    You need a filter that removes "e"


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