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Remote shutter release timer control for Nikon D3200

Discussion in 'General Equipment Chat & Advice' started by dr_eyehead, Apr 22, 2014.

  1. dr_eyehead

    dr_eyehead Well-Known Member

    I didn't do my research well enough and it turns out the camera I bought yesterday cannot be programmed to do fancy things like starlapses, which I'd hoped to do with it. Also HDR would be a bonus as well.

    Can anyone advise me on what my best option is here?

    To be honest I don't see why they can't include these things in the software, I suppose they want to encourage you to buy accessories...
     
  2. Donkey

    Donkey Well-Known Member

    Last edited: Apr 22, 2014
  3. PeteRob

    PeteRob Well-Known Member

    Not sure that any camera can do that - is a bit of a specialised interest - usually you would buy an external trigger as suggested. HDR is a post processing step and needs some skill to achieve meaningful results.
     
  4. dr_eyehead

    dr_eyehead Well-Known Member

    Thanks. Looks good and a good price. I have a look at some android apps, but it seems you need to make special cables for it. It didn't work anyway. £15 for a small device like this though sounds like just what I am looking for.
     
  5. dr_eyehead

    dr_eyehead Well-Known Member

    Also requires multiple shots with the camera which can only really be achieved by programming it.
     
  6. dr_eyehead

    dr_eyehead Well-Known Member

    I just ordered one, and then someone replied to my question about whether it works for the D3200 (I noticed it said down the bottom it did) saying it didn't work on their D3100 :-/ Saying that though it gets good reviews for the D3100, but not the D3200. Hopefully I can add to that when it arrives with more positive feedback.
     
  7. PeteRob

    PeteRob Well-Known Member

    exposure bracketing is a fairly standard feature - not something I would consider programming. Cameras can (to varying degrees) be controlled remotely. I guess you could program a computer to operate the key functions. The remote controls, such as an intervelometer that fires the shutter at fixed intervals won't be very sophisticated.
     
  8. dr_eyehead

    dr_eyehead Well-Known Member

    It doesn't have to be sophisticated, just allow me to programme it thing to do time lapses etc and give me a bit more creative freedom that I appear to be getting for the budget entry level DSLR price.
     
  9. dr_eyehead

    dr_eyehead Well-Known Member

    Just received my remote timer in the post this morning (very fast delivery from Amazon) and tested it out and it seem to do what it says on the tin :p so looking forward to playing around with it all. Thanks for the tip Donkey Kev! :D

    Are there any things I need to consider, such as over exposure and damage to the camera? By overwriting the default settings there may be a risk of this. I read in the manual not to focus it on the sun.
     
  10. dr_eyehead

    dr_eyehead Well-Known Member

    I'm a bit confused about what settings to have on the camera, presumably if I set it in M then I set the aperture and exposure there and leave the exposure on the remote to zero it will just use the camera settings. It says in the instructions to use the camera shutter speed to set the camera to M os S, but presumably it will use the camera settings on M, S, A and P?

    I'm a bit confused as to when it will not use the camera settings though. If it's on auto will it use the camera settings if I set the exposure to zero? What if I set the exposure to 1 second and put it on auto or M?
     
  11. beatnik69

    beatnik69 Well-Known Member

    If you have the camera set to Auto it will select the exposure settings it deems most suitable for the environment you are shooting in. If you set the camera to M and set the shutter speed to 1" you will need to set your aperture and possibly ISO to avoid over or underexposure.

    What exactly is it you are trying to photograph?
     
  12. dr_eyehead

    dr_eyehead Well-Known Member

    I'm going to be using it for mostly landscapes, panoramics etc.. and probably lots of other things. I used to take all different kinds of photography with my cheap P&S even night photography, although the results were less than impressive. I just set it to to a quick cloudscape timelapse, but the clouds are not moving much...

    I'm hoping to use it to do night photography and also starlapses.

    It says in the instructions to use the camera exposure time settings I need to set the camera to M or S.
     
  13. beatnik69

    beatnik69 Well-Known Member

    That sounds right to me. I would go for S to make things easier.
     
  14. dr_eyehead

    dr_eyehead Well-Known Member

    What do I set the camera to to use the remote exposure setting?
     
  15. PeteRob

    PeteRob Well-Known Member

    I am not sure what you mean by remote exposure.

    You bought a remote control with an interval setting as I understood it. This will fire the shutter at the chosen intervals once connected.

    The exposure is the amount of light passed through the lens which is the product of the time the shutter is open and the area of the aperture.

    You control this by either changing the exposure time, or the area or both.

    The correct exposure depends on the sensitivity of the "film" which you control via the ISO setting.

    The camera meter will suggest an exposure time (s) and area (F number) pair that will render a plain subject grey for a given ISO provided that this setting falls within the limits on these parameters.

    The camera will have several modes. In the old days ISO used to be fixed - you needed to change film to alter it.

    So S mode (called Tv on some cameras) - you fix the exposure time and the camera can adjust the aperture between the limits on the lens. Say F4 to F22.

    A mode - you fix the aperture and the camera can adjust the exposure time between say nowadays 1/4000 to 30 seconds. A much bigger range.

    P mode or Auto - the camera may alter all of exposure time, aperture, iso to get an average exposure where possible.

    M mode - you fix everything. The onus is on you to ensure the right amount of light is allowed through.

    when taking a series of pictures the exposure time should be less than the interval between shots.
     
  16. dr_eyehead

    dr_eyehead Well-Known Member

    The exposure set by the remote...

    Some over ride the camera settings, others don't. That's what I am asking here.
     
  17. dr_eyehead

    dr_eyehead Well-Known Member

    Anyone know any good ways to rended images into video? I just tried this method three times using photoshop CS3 and the first time instead of a video all I got was a series of jpegs. Second time it locked up and I had to restart everything. Third time lucky I am hoping maybe it will work...?

    http://designinstruct.com/photography/creating-a-time-lapse-video-in-photoshop/

    Edit: nope. third time- another set of reduced size jpegs... :confused: no video. Can see the timelapse when I following the steps, but it doesn't seem to want to turn them into a video file for me.

    Edit Edit: I don't seem to have the option to convert to video in the last option, maybe I am missing a plug in?
     
    Last edited: Apr 24, 2014
  18. PeteRob

    PeteRob Well-Known Member

    eh? remote controls don't affect exposure they just trigger the shutter.
     
  19. dr_eyehead

    dr_eyehead Well-Known Member

    This one controls the exposure, or else I've just been sold a pup.
     
  20. dr_eyehead

    dr_eyehead Well-Known Member

    Movie Maker to the rescue!
     

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