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Places to take photos indoors

Discussion in 'Photographic Locations' started by Legojon, Aug 9, 2019.

  1. PeteRob

    PeteRob Well-Known Member

    It isn't that difficult to appreciate. For a given field of view you need to use a shorter focal length lens (by a factor 2) on a m4/3 camera than on a full-frame camera to take the same picture from the same position. The results are typically viewed at the same size. Therefore you get a greater depth of field in the image taken with the smaller camera.

    Digital compacts (which had very, very small focal length lenses) waved bye-bye to the out-of-focus woes of the 35mm film compact they quickly replaced. Now I understand that image processing to "blur" backgrounds is built in to some cameras (e.g. phone cameras) to [optionally] be rid of their enormous depth of field.
  2. Chester AP

    Chester AP Well-Known Member

    It's easy to be impressed by the reviews of exciting and expensive lenses with 'fast' apertures -Sigma currently appear to be chasing customers with lots of money to spend on this type of lens, even though the depth of field at the maximum aperture will be very shallow and the lens will be much larger and heavier than one with a more modest maximum aperture.

    For example, 40 or 50 years ago the major manufacturers made 50 mm F 1.4 (or even F 1.2) lenses, but their range often also included a 50 mm F 2.8 for less wealthy photographers. The F 2.8 lens was also smaller and less heavy.

    If you don't want to use the very shallow depth of field of the more expensive lenses, and want to work at F 8 or F 11 to get a decent depth of field, then there is little point in paying for the F 1.8 lens (best not to use F 16 or F 22 on an APS-C camera body because the image quality may drop at those apertures). In your case, the F 1.8 lens will probably produces it sharpest image at F 3.5 or F 4.5, whereas the 18-55 zoom will probably produce its best image at F 5.6 or F 8 depending on the focal length used. Also, the best possible sharpness may be better on the 35 mm 'prime' lens than on the zoom, but this will probably only be visible if you do large prints.

    Why not do some experimenting to test the depth of field and sharpness, using various apertures? Looking along a fence is the 'classic' shots for doing this, or perhaps shooting across a chess board with pieces in it. Both will clearly show how the depth of field changes with lens aperture, and you can also compare the sharpness of of what is in focus between different shots.
    Legojon and RogerMac like this.
  3. Andrew Flannigan

    Andrew Flannigan Well-Known Member

    The best way to learn is by doing. Just take pictures wherever you happen to be. Remember the golden rule of photography: the finest camera and lens is the one you have with you when you see a picture...

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  4. Legojon

    Legojon Active Member

    Pretty much every word of advise was true. What a nightmare... I literally spent about 2 hours at the museum and came out exhausted. Aside from the physical challenges: It was boiling hot, packed full of people trying to squash past me and knocking into me, trying to position each shot to exclude 100s of tourists. But they couldn't make it any more challenging to photograph. Walking from one exhibit to the next, one would be brightly lit with harsh spot lights, the next in near complete darkness. Some even had lights that changed colour in a sequence. Exhibits behind glass cases. Lets not even talk about the fact the roof is entirely made of glass.

    dsc1576.jpg dsc1598.jpg dsc1604.jpg dsc1605.jpg dsc1667.jpg dsc1694.jpg
  5. Chester AP

    Chester AP Well-Known Member

    re. exhibits behind glass: if you want to take shots like this, find out about polarising filters. One of these will remove or reduce reflections on the glass (depending on where you stand and where the light source is). A top quality one will cost you, but for now something like these from SRB should be perfect for experimentation (I've used this retailer myself and had no problems). If you find any secondhand ones that fit your lens, make sure that they are not 'linear' polarising filters made for older cameras because these may screw up the autofocus on some modern cameras.


    Re. the crowds: I hate museums and exhibitions that are crowded. I recall many years ago (pre-digital) being in the Uffizi in Florence and the Botticelli room was so full of Japanese tourists taking pictures of each other standing in front of 'The Birth of Venus' that I left that room as quickly as possible. But my wife and I had 10 minutes completely alone in the Caravaggio room, until 3 coach parties of tourists rushed through it without stopping to look at any of the pictures. I think my point is that you'll need to investigate places that don't attract so many people, and then find out if you can go at less popular times. Websites that advise on the 'must see' or 'Top 10' sites will give you a good idea of places to avoid.
  6. Legojon

    Legojon Active Member

    Ah, ok. Cheers. For the price I'll definitely be picking one up to have a go with. I actually waited behind a guy to take the pic below. He had a bag full of lenses, external flash, full frame Sony body. And all I could see from behind was a massive flash, then him looking at the screen swearing. Another flash, another round of swearing. He did it one more time then walked off waving his arms. I assume the flash bounces off the glass? I'm fairly pleased with my turn (below)... obviously if you look carefully you can still make out a couple of reflections in the glass.

    As for the crowds, I literally picked what was supposed to be the most unpopular day (Thursday) and was there as soon as they opened (which google said was quieter). I'd hate to see it on a Saturday lunch time. I was just as patient as possible and waited for the crowd wave to edge me to the front. My mantra seems to be working quite well. I'm still a newbie, so if I go to a place and come out with zero usable photos, I'm ok with it. I think if I had expectations to get 5,10,50 good photos it'd just be really stressful.

  7. PeteRob

    PeteRob Well-Known Member

    You can't use flash through glass. It just reflects back. Autofocus can get also get fooled, especially if there is a reflection.
  8. RogerMac

    RogerMac Well-Known Member

    If you are forced to use it try bounced flash but I like your raptor as it is.
    Legojon likes this.
  9. Chester AP

    Chester AP Well-Known Member

    Idiots like this spend lots of money on the latest and most expensive hardware, and have no idea how to use it , whereas you looked at the problem and immediately realised that the flash will bounce off the glass...

    It is possible to use a flash, but 'off camera' with the flash head touching the glass so that no light is reflected by it. In the old days the flash would be attached by a cable to a socket on the camera body, but I assume that today something much more complicated and expensive is required instead of the simple cable.

    Why didn't the museum staff pounce on him for using the flash? So not only and idiot, but very selfish too.
    Legojon likes this.
  10. Legojon

    Legojon Active Member

    I did wonder whether to say something to him. But wasn't sure how he'd react. Plus he was getting more agigated by the shot.

    There weren't any staff in that section, it was a corridor of I guess minor exhibits inbetween the large dinosaur exhibits. I'd packed as light as possible, just my camera, prime lens and short zoom lens which just allowed me to weave in and out of the crowd for shots.
  11. Chester AP

    Chester AP Well-Known Member

    I suspect that in this case it was best not to offer help. In my experience, however tactful you are, with some people your approach is resented. Perhaps if you had been using a polarising filter and no flash, he might have had the initiative to ask you what you were doing. This has happened to me, but usually with beginners who want to learn the basics and realise that a little free advice could be helpful and be freely given. By I suspect that this man, having spent lots of money on the latest kit, assumed that he already knew everything and was too stupid to realise that he probably knew very little. I'd love to know if he took the camera back to the shop and complained...
    Legojon likes this.
  12. Bandersnatch

    Bandersnatch Member

    The Railway Hall in the Ulster Folk & Transport Museum.


    Shot with a Nikon D3100 fitted with a Nikon 18-55mm lens.
    beatnik69 likes this.
  13. ahsan sohail

    ahsan sohail New Member

    Filled with colorful vegetables and bright lights, grocery stores are a goldmine for portrait photography. You can capture a wide variety of different scenes reminiscent of everyday life. Have your model interact with different items in the store and use them as props.
  14. Geren

    Geren Well-Known Member

    I always feel that the joy of photographing indoors is to explore how the people there, and the light on the day, interact with the space and the things in it. I love watching people look at exhibits much more than the exhibits themselves. It's generally the shots of the people and the reflections that are the most fun to take, especially when everyone with a phone can take a pic of a pile of bones.

    Musee D'Orsay, Paris

    Topography of Terror, Berlin

    Marks & Sparks, Glasgow
  15. Geren

    Geren Well-Known Member

    And actually, i've found independent shopkeepers are brilliant for letting you photograph both them and their stores, particularly if you give them some blarney about it being a uni project. The owner of this shop was quite bemused as to why I wanted to photograph his shop but let me crack on with it nonetheless. Check out the artex on that ceiling if you can get your eyes off the organised choss on the walls.

    daft_biker likes this.
  16. IvorETower

    IvorETower Little Buttercup

    I'm still looking for the choss.....

    and wondering what a pography is, and how it grows on a toe...... next time I get to Berlin, hoping that there will indeed be a next time, I will try to remember to visit the Toe Pography along with several other sights that I have yet to see

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    From the Technic museum, well worth a visit IMHO
    Last edited: Oct 27, 2020
  17. Arun Kumar

    Arun Kumar New Member

    Smoke Pics
    The smoke effect in your photos can create an unusual look. Try to move in this smoke, use a fan to get diverse photos or blow it around you.

    There won’t be any problems while performing image editing with such an effect because it will look nice on camera. If you want, you can work with an adjustment brush to make the smoke more detailed and interesting.

    Mirror Photography
    This type of creative indoor photography ideas is perfect for Instagram, YouTube thumbnails and trendy product pictures. Use a longer lens with a fast aperture to achieve the best result.

    Set your black background as far as possible. Place the objects onto the mirror and make sure you light them from the sides.

    If you do it, not much light will get in that black background. Use a side lighting with a strong, diffused light or an external flash.

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