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Olympus Trip 35 - PLEASE HELP!!

Discussion in 'Help Team' started by tangerine, Mar 9, 2015.

  1. tangerine

    tangerine Member

    Hello everyone,

    Right I bought an Olympus Trip 35 off eBay and it came with a HANIMEX X140 flash.

    However when I was trying to load the film, I couldn't wind the film on in Automatic setting. But when I changed it to 2.8 it started to wind.

    I have set the ASA on 200 as that is what my film says, and I had it set on portrait as I was taking a picture of my girlfriend. I also had it set to Automatic but when I tried to take a picture the little red thing in the viewfinder popped up. It seems the automatic setting is just not working or I'm getting something wrong? It wouldn't work with or without the flash!

    All I wanted the camera for was to take general photographs, nothing fancy thats why I thought auto would be best?

    Please can someone help or tell me what it needs to be on???

    Thank you!

  2. gray1720

    gray1720 Well-Known Member

    Hi Maria,

    Were you somewhere reasonably brightly lit? The red flag blocks the shutter when the meter indicates there isn't enough light for a good exposure. I'd suggest for 200 speed film you'd want to be outdoors in daylight (not necessarily full sun).

    Mind you, the behaviour when you wound on first sounds odd, can't help with the flash bit as I've never used mine with a flash...

    If it was sold as fully working you should have grounds for a refund. Lovely little cameras, but if it isn't working...

  3. El_Sid

    El_Sid Well-Known Member

    You can get a copy of the manual here: http://www.cameramanuals.org/olympus_pdf/olympus_trip_35.pdf

    The thing with the loading appears to be the way the camera works according to the manual.

    The red thing in the finder is saying the light is to low. If that's coming up even in good light it's possible that the cameras meter has died or isn't powered up. If I remember correctly the meter (the glass ring round the lens) is one of those old types that power themselves from the light that falls on them. In some of these the elements that react to the light to generate the small current that operates the metering required for auto decay with time and use until they stop working - if this has happened then the camera is assuming a dark scene or possibly even locking up.

    Does the shutter release in manual exposure mode?
  4. gray1720

    gray1720 Well-Known Member

    Yes, the light meter is a no-battery selenium cell. Trips seem to be reasonably immune to dead cells (unlike most other cameras with them!), but nothing's perfect and even the youngest Trip will be over thirty years old now.

  5. tangerine

    tangerine Member

    Thank you for replying guys!

    What is the manual exposure mode?

    I'm completely lost with this! I really want to keep this camera but how will i know if its broken or not??

    What does the 2.8 4 5.6 etc etc mean??

    On the back of the flash it says ISO - 100/400/1000 DIN - 21/27/32 M - 1.2/1.8/2.4/3.6/4.8/7.2 FT - 4/6/8/12/16/24

    What does all of this mean??

    Can I only use this camera in the sunlight??

    Thank you!

  6. tangerine

    tangerine Member

    I'm sitting here now in my room that is pretty dark, can i not take a picture then with my camera and flash???

  7. gray1720

    gray1720 Well-Known Member

    OK, let's see what we can do to help...

    The manual mode is any of the numbers - not A, that's automatic. Each number is a different setting of the aperture in the camera - that's one of the bits that controls how much light reaches the film (the other is the shutter speed, which I don't remember being able to alter on a Trip). The smaller the number, the bigger the aperture, the more light it lets in. Lets ignore that for a mnute and think about the flash.

    Sorry, I wasn't very clear about the red flag - if you have it set to Auto it will block the shutter if it isn't bright enough. You should be able to take a photo with the flash in a dark room quite happily. The numbers on the flash should tell you how far away you need to be for the aperture you've set (I think - I haven't used a flashgun in yonks), someone else will have to explain that, though...

    Is there a battery in the flash? If it's on the camera and turned on, so long as the camera isn't set to A it should fire when you press the shutter.

  8. tangerine

    tangerine Member


    Thank you again for all your help!

    I am trying to learn about aperture on the internet at moment!

    So can you only use the auto setting in the light?

  9. gray1720

    gray1720 Well-Known Member

    Not strictly, but if you test it in bright daylight it should work and if the red flag comes up, there may be something wrong (that probably adds to the confusion... sorry!).

    I read somewhere (Wikipedia?) that it should cope with a brightly lit room, how true that is I'm not sure.

    There is also a popular Trip 35 group on Flickr if you are a member, lots of people with lots of Trip experience. Well worth joining up!

  10. tangerine

    tangerine Member

    Thank you Adrian for all your help!

    I tested it today in the sunlight set on auto and it worked great! I think when using the flash the aperture has to be set manually.

    I just need to get clued up on aperture now!

    Thank you again

  11. gray1720

    gray1720 Well-Known Member

    Hurrah! Glad to be of service.

    Now daylight is sorted, for flash you should be able to work out how far away your subject can be, and what aperture you can shoot at, from the numbers on the back of the flash... but without a flash gun in front of me I can't!

    Happy shooting, when you have some results post them in the Exhibition Lounge - the Relic Challenge thread is custom made for such things. They're nice little cameras.

  12. tangerine

    tangerine Member

    I will have a look at the flash and try and figure it out! I am going to join the flickr group too and see if someone of there knows about what is the best setting for the flash!

    My first lot of film is going to be very funny practise shots!
  13. AlexMonro

    AlexMonro Old Grand Part Deux

    Many flashguns have a power rating called the guide number, which is a relatively simple way of working out the required aperture from the distance to the subject.

    The guide number is simply the aperture (f/number) multiplied by the distance, so the required f stop is the guide number divided by the distance. A couple of complications are that you need to know if the guide number is in feet or metres, and use the right units for your distance, and also the guide number is given for a specified film speed (sensitivity to light) - usually 100 ISO. So for example, with a flash gun with guide number 20m, and a subject 5m away, you would use an aperture of 20/5 = f/4.

    From your description of all the numbers on the back of your flashgun, it looks as though it's got a built in mechanical calculator or look up table that allows you to set the film speed you're using and read off the aperture against the subject distance, but without seeing it (perhaps you could post a pic of the back of the flashgun?) it's hard to say exactly how to use it.

    From what you say, the 2.8 4 5.6 8 11 16 etc are the aperture f/stops. The ISO 100 200 400 DIN 21 27 32 are film speeds (two different widely used scales - ISO is effectively the same as ASA) and the M 1.2/1.8/2.4/3.6/4.8/7.2 FT - 4/6/8/12/16/24 is the distance to the subject, in metres or feet respectively.
  14. tangerine

    tangerine Member

    Thank you so much for all of this information! I think I'm kind of understanding it now! Yes I'll post a picture when I get home!

    thank you thank you!

  15. 0lybacker

    0lybacker In the Stop Bath

    Adrian, If you load a film at night or in poor light or indoors in either situation you have to move the aperture ring off A otherwise you cannot wind on & fire the shutter twice to get to frame 1. The auto red flag interlock kicks in & prevents the shutter opening.

    Maria, Using the Trip 35 with flash is easy if you have an auto flash; set the appropriate aperture for the auto setting or settings provided by the flash for the speed of film you have in camera.

    If it's a totally manual flash you have to work the other way round a bit. Work out your camera to subject distance. Using the scale on the flashgun for different film speeds versus distance you should be able to locate the aperture you need to set on the ring on the camera for correct exposure. As you are getting used to both camera & flash it would be worthwhile trying three frames for each picture on a few occasions. One at the 'correct' aperture, then one each stopped down one stop and opened up one stop from the 'correct' setting. Review the negatives after the film is developed to see which has the best densities.

    Remember to re-set the aperture ring to A for exposures without flash outdoors.

    However, here are 2 useful 'hacks' (to use a modern term of 'yooofspeek' :rolleyes::D):

    1. On the A setting the auto-exposure system of the Trip 35 provides a shutter speed of 1/200sec & appropriate aperture. If you think a particular image needs a little extra exposure or a little less then adjust the film speed setting accordingly. Remember to re-set to the nominal speed or your prefered version of the same afterwards.
    2. Off the A auto setting, the camera provides a shutter speed of 1/40sec and knowing this can come in handy in a low light setting when the red 'insufficient light' flag is just starting to appear & lock the shutter release. At that point switch to f2.8 and making sure to hold the camera really steady, take your picture. Remember to re-set the aperture ring back to A for when next using it in good light.
  16. gray1720

    gray1720 Well-Known Member

    Ah, now you say that, Oly, it makes total sense, you can tell it's a while since I had mine out.

    Incidentally, isn't it nice to see someone come back and say "thank you!"? Not a lot of people do it, so thank you too, Maria.


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