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Olympus Trip 35 or Yashica Minister III?

Discussion in 'Everything Film' started by Kitchen10, Sep 29, 2015.

  1. PeteRob

    PeteRob Well-Known Member

    You need C-41 chemistry to process C-41 film. Kodachrome is long gone I think. It was a proprietary process and needed to be done by a Kodak lab as far as I know.
     
  2. Kitchen10

    Kitchen10 Well-Known Member

    Thanks. I haven't seen a roll of Kodachrome that isn't out of date, so I agree about it being long gone.

    I've cleaned out the old light seals and put in some black knitting wool - it seems to fit snugly and it seems fairly light-tight. This link is to some photos of the job I've done and the camera itself :):

    https://www.dropbox.com/sh/s5i2fr8mr3cc9u3/AADvdQrMw_T7uyPTu_h_JuZ1a?dl=0

    What do you guys think? I haven't glued in the wool as it gets held in by the small amount of residue left from the original seals.

    UPDATE: I used this site to help me out :D:

    http://mattsclassiccameras.com/light_seals/index.html

    The camera that Matt uses is very similar to mine!
     
    Last edited: Oct 7, 2015
  3. PeteE

    PeteE Well-Known Member

    Re: Olympus Trip 35 or Yashica Minister III? ( Foam seals etc )

    I got a sheet of black sticky backed foam from 'Hobby Crafts' shop of Romford for 80 pence and did all my mirror bumpers and strips on camera backs -- I cut small strips with a 'Rotary Trimmer' that I got in my Camera Club annual auction for £1-00 You must have a 'Hobby Crafts' branch near you . Regarding that darkroom Stuff -- £15 --00 is too expensive when so many people are willing to GIVE it away in camera clubs !!
     
  4. Kitchen10

    Kitchen10 Well-Known Member

    I have a tiny flat LED torch that is really bright. I put it inside the film compartment in various positions, turned it on, closed the back and went into a pitch black room. I can't see ay light coming out at all. Does this mean that the new 'light seals' are OK? :confused:
     
  5. Kitchen10

    Kitchen10 Well-Known Member

    Re: Olympus Trip 35 or Yashica Minister III? ( Foam seals etc )

    I think that I'll try my string-based light seals for now. If my test roll comes out with light leaks, I'll give the foam a try. Regarding the darkroom stuff, I have no local camera clubs that I can join!
     
  6. steveandthedogs

    steveandthedogs Well-Known Member

    Seems ok for the price. Get three or four kitchen measuring jugs from a pound shop and mark them dev, stop and fix. And one for water. That way, you can have everything measured out ready. Don't forget you can reuse stop and fix.

    S
     
  7. steveandthedogs

    steveandthedogs Well-Known Member

    Re: Olympus Trip 35 or Yashica Minister III? ( Foam seals etc )

    Yes, but his nearest club is miles away. And 18+

    S
     
  8. Kitchen10

    Kitchen10 Well-Known Member

    Thanks. I'll see if anything else comes up before asking my parents. After all, if I can find some free stuff, it would be great!
     
  9. steveandthedogs

    steveandthedogs Well-Known Member

    Looks fine, give it a try and let us know the result.

    S

    ps have you got a lens cap? Best to keep the lens and the light cells covered.
     
    Last edited: Oct 7, 2015
  10. steveandthedogs

    steveandthedogs Well-Known Member

    Pete, I've seen on another site that you can process C41 in b&w chemistry, but it comes out very dense though scans well. Just in mono...

    Never tried it myself.

    S
     
  11. Kitchen10

    Kitchen10 Well-Known Member

    Right, I'll give it a go. Unfortunately, I haven't got a lens cap that fits. All of my spares are either too small (less than 52mm) or too big (more than 58mm)! However, I have the original hard case that covers the lens and the selenium cells. I would rather have the lens cap really, as the case makes it harder to operate the frame advance!
     
  12. gray1720

    gray1720 Well-Known Member

    If it's got the spiral in it for film loading, that's a good price - but you need to be sure of that as spirals aren't cheap.

    You can develop C41 in at least some B&W chemicals - I've done it myself in Rodinal - but you won't be able to print them using an enlarger as the negs will come out very dark brown (there's a bleach step in C41 IIRC).

    Adrian
     
  13. Kitchen10

    Kitchen10 Well-Known Member

    If I were to develop a C-41 film in Rodinal (I'm looking at getting some Tetenal Paranol), how would I correct my scans so that the brown 'goes away' or becomes transparent? I can't afford a licence for photoshop :mad:.
     
  14. nimbus

    nimbus Well-Known Member

    You might be able to find an old disc for an older version of elements for nothing, they were often bundled with printers and scanners.
     
  15. steveandthedogs

    steveandthedogs Well-Known Member

    Look up Irfanview or Gimp [see "How to Post Images" in Exhibition Lounge], they're freeware.

    S
     
  16. Kitchen10

    Kitchen10 Well-Known Member

    Thanks guys. I'll dig around my box of drivers and discs that come with peripherals. I'll take a look at Gimp and Irfanview.
     
  17. PeteRob

    PeteRob Well-Known Member


    Seems perverse when the high street will do C-41 processing for very little cost. You can then scan the colour negative and convert to mono. I don't have a negative scanner but vuescan has adjustment options although I never used them. I only use it to scan text from an all-in-one.
     
  18. Kitchen10

    Kitchen10 Well-Known Member

    I'm currently shooting my test roll on the Yashica, but I've noticed that the meter is useless in low(ish) light. Can anyone recommend to me a cheapish light meter (not selenium!) that I can use in low(ish) light? I would like something less than £50, but I can appreciate that there probably isn't much in this price range!
     
  19. steveandthedogs

    steveandthedogs Well-Known Member

    On the other hand, Pete, Poundland film is cheaper than just about every b&w film. And if he wants to process his own, why not?

    S
     
  20. steveandthedogs

    steveandthedogs Well-Known Member

    Why not selenium? Lot of stories that selenium meters die early, but keep the lens cap on or the cells covered in some way and they are usually fine in my experience.
    I've got an old Weston, which matches perfectly the CdS one, as do most of the camera selenium meters. The real problem seems to be with wiring and the soldered joints.

    S

    ps I did try to tell you the Yasihca meter is rubbish! Great big cell array, superb positioning, totally unreadable meter, possibly the worst I've seen!
     
    Last edited: Oct 12, 2015

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