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IR converted cameras, who uses one?

Discussion in 'Colour or Not' started by dazdmc, Dec 29, 2019.

  1. dazdmc

    dazdmc Well-Known Member

    I have a Nikon D70s thats been converted to 720nm. Does anyone else here have similar that I can ask some questions of? I've researched loads online and have got the basics down and know I need to experiment more, but if you want the honest truth I'm being a little lazy!!! (and the light in Scotland at this time of year isn't great for playing)
    My main question I suppose is what WB gives a good start for contrasty B+W conversion?
    What would you recommend I play with? Should I try and set everything in camera as far as I can or rely on post procesing (which I hate) Any advice/tips or just pointers would be really welcome,

    thanks

    daz
     
  2. beatnik69

    beatnik69 Well-Known Member

    I believe @ElSid takes a lot of IR stuff.
     
  3. PeteRob

    PeteRob Well-Known Member

    My son has had several IR converted cameras, (Nikon, Olympus) the current is a Canon 6D. His last reply to the what software question was Canon DPP and GIMP. I'm fairly sure that you won't get rid of the colour cast with a simple white balance correction. I'll ask next time I see him.
     
  4. Petrochemist

    Petrochemist Well-Known Member

    I have 2 converted to full spectrum, as well as several others that are natively IR sensitive, or have removable hot mirrors.

    Most of the time I shoot with filters that allow both IR & some visual to be recorded, but I did shoot 720nm yesterday!

    The traditional WB for 720nm is a custom WB recorded shooting healthy foliage (with the filter fitted), but I've never found it to matter too much for monochrome shots. I just use one of my saved CWB. White balance has much more effect if you're trying to record some false colour. Yesterday I found I was seeing much more blue in the results than I usually do with a 720nm filter, I may well keep them as pseudo pop-colour shots rather than converting to B&W.

    With the sun low in the sky at this time of year the best results are typically when shooting with the sun behind you - not something that makes much difference in summer especially around midday.
     
    Done_rundleCams likes this.
  5. AndyTake2

    AndyTake2 Well-Known Member

    I did a basic conversion on my compact camera (Panasonic TZ6) a couple of days ago.
    Just took it to bits and removed the IR-blocking filter.
    I wanted to take some pics of the bats that are flying around, but they are just too fast for my camera (the shutter lag is huge) but the effects are interesting.
    I tried it in Mono, but then went back to colour, so that it can just record whatever hits the sensor and sort it out in photoshop later (they're Just Jpegs) so no need to worry about the white balance, which was a faff to worry about.

    I'd like a properly converted camera, but money forbids at the minute - if you have a fully converted camera (with the bayer filter removed) then your results will be far better (although obviously mono)
     
    EightBitTony likes this.
  6. steveandthedogs

    steveandthedogs Well-Known Member

    Love the casual way you say that...

    S
     
    IvorETower likes this.
  7. Petrochemist

    Petrochemist Well-Known Member

    It's not that difficult with some compacts.
    I've modified an old Kodak in a lunchtime, but had to give up on a Sony due the far more complicated way the shell was assembled.
     
  8. AndyTake2

    AndyTake2 Well-Known Member

    Yep. Compact was easy.
    Thee is a video on YouTube about converting the TZ6, but I did it quicker than that.
    Unscrew back and prise open
    Camera face down, fold back over to side, no need to remove ribbons as in youtube
    Unscrew 3 screws on pressure plate to expose sensor, still on ribbon
    Flick IR filter off with tweezers.
    Reseat rubber housing, push sensor into it.
    Reassemble:)

    Tried it on my Finepix S5600, but looks like sensor is part of lens assembly.
    Service manual gives no detail of the lens assembly, so will need to think on this a bit
     
  9. PeteRob

    PeteRob Well-Known Member

    Easy to be casual about taking it apart and removing bits.

    I had a friend who could, and would, take anything apart.

    Putting it all back together again requires a different skill-set.
     
  10. AndyTake2

    AndyTake2 Well-Known Member

    Been there, done that on many occasion!
    Still, it's nice to see all the bits and pieces that go into things:D
     
  11. spinno

    spinno Well-Known Member

    Acquired a Fujifilm X-A5 converted to full spectrum, here's one I did earlier trying to achieve the Aerochrome look
    [​IMG]
     
    Petrochemist and steveandthedogs like this.
  12. Petrochemist

    Petrochemist Well-Known Member

    What filter/settings do you use for aerochrome on your FS camera?
    I use my SD14 for aerochrome as the foveon sensor gives very different colour for IR
    aerochrome from sd14.jpg
    This recent example (shot with an X1 filter & fluorescent WB) is pretty much SOOC
     
    AndyTake2 likes this.
  13. spinno

    spinno Well-Known Member

    I use tungsten white balance tweaked slightly with a Hoya Orange (G) filter. For processing it's a case of red and blue channel swap, and then blue and green channel swap. I then use levels to set a grey point (using the eye dropper) and if necessary a little tweak in shadows/highlights.
    Sounds a faff but it soon becomes quite straightforward.
    I might try some other "old-time" filters, just to see what happens.
     
  14. Petrochemist

    Petrochemist Well-Known Member

    Thanks.
    Yes somewhat of a faff, but not needing any special photoshop actions or anything.

    Most old filters transmit significant IR so playing with them can be rewarding. Red, orange & yellow filters are nearly all long pass filters just blocking the lower end of the visible to various extents.
    On my standard FS models I've found some blue filters can be interesting, but results have been rather variable - one that worked well one day didn't the next time I took it out. I suppose this could be a matter of which lens I was using as blue filters sometimes transmit significant UV & lenses have a huge impact here.
    Variable ND filters allow yo to adjust the amount of visual light while always seeing the IR - unfortunately I've not found any that can controllerably throttle back the IR while keeping the visible.
     

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