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Hi all.

Discussion in 'Introductions...' started by Smadga, Jul 21, 2018.

  1. Chester AP

    Chester AP Well-Known Member

    If you want to try close-up work, look for a secondhand old model Tamron 90 mm F2.8 macro. I've got one that I purchased secondhand from London Camera Exchange a few years ago. It's probably 20 years old now, autofocus and working perfectly.
    For a bit less money you can also look for a Sigma 50 mm F 2.8 autofocus macro (I've got a secondhand one of these too), but you will need to be closer to the subject for macro work.

    Also, both of these are good portrait lenses. On an APS-C sensor camera body like yours or mine, the 50 mm will be equivalent to about 75 mm, and the 90 mm equivalent to about 135 mm, on a full frame camera body. And being 'only' F 2.8 lenses, they are much less expensive (and smaller and less heavy) than the latest F 1.8 (or even faster) lenses that AP reviewers rave about.
    Smadga likes this.
  2. Smadga

    Smadga Member

    Cheers Chester , I'll look around the various shops online after reading a few threads on here I'll see what's about.
  3. Benchista

    Benchista Which Tyler

    Well no, they won't. Canon's 50mm f1.8 and 85mm f1.8 are both pretty light and pretty cheap. Even the 50mm f1.4 is neither dear nor heavy. Once you get beyond that, though, it's absolutely true; the 50mm f1 and 50mm f1.2 are both huge and expensive, ditto the 85mm f1.4 and 85mm f1.2.
  4. Chester AP

    Chester AP Well-Known Member

    The canon 85 mm F1.8 is £414 on the Park Camera website and weights 425 grammes.
    This is about the same as my old Tamron 90 mm F2.8, which surprises me.
    £414 may be 'pretty cheap' to you - the most expensive lens I have ever purchased new was £300, and in the last 5 years £200 secondhand.

    I also had in mind wide angle lenses. Many years ago I tried a manual SMC Pentax-M 20mm F4 (150 grammes), which was wonderful but way beyond my budget (I settled for a secondhand manual Vivitar 19mm F3.8). The current Sigma 20 mm F1.4 weighs 950 grammes - over 6 times as much as the Pentax F4, although a few grammes of this will be the autofocus mechanism. If I ever manage to afford a secondhand Pentax K1 body, I'll be looking for an nice used SMC Pentax-M 20mm F4.

    The camera body megapixel war may be over for most of us, but the lens manufacturers have moved on to a maximum aperture war instead. If the Chinese lens manufacturers set up a decent UK agency and sales network, perhaps Sigma and Tamron will lose sales to lenses with smaller (but quite adequate) maximum apertures that more of us can afford.
  5. Benchista

    Benchista Which Tyler

    Not sure why you would compare the new price of the Canon lens to a used Tamron; first price I see for the 85 f1.8 when using Google from a reputable retailer is £214 s/h. I think that is pretty, but not dirt, cheap. YMMV, of course.
    From the same source, a used Canon 20mm f2.8 is £274, very close to what the Pentax goes for. It's 405g, so heavier, but twice as fast.
    Alternatively, from the same source again, the 10-18mm zoom is £179 and weighs 240g.
    Other options are the 28mm f1.8 at £284 (309g) and the 35mm f2, generally less than £200 (210g).
    And then there's the 24mm f2.8 pancake, £154 new and 125g, and the 40mm f2.8 pancake, £170 new and 130g. Additionally, Canon have a range of moderately fast wideangle primes with IS that are not anything like as dear as the very fast ones, although I think they were too pricey when launched. They are very good, though.
    There are something like 100 million EF and EF-S lenses out there made by Canon alone, before you start to factor in third-party manufacturers, so there are plenty to choose from. :)
  6. Slide2PCme

    Slide2PCme Member

    Hi Everybody !

    New member here; just registered July 31, 2018 and received membership approval Aug.1.

    Still happily married to my one-and-only high school sweetheart after more than 50 years, 3 sons and currently 5 grandchildren.

    As you might have surmised from my username, I'm currently working on saving slides to my PC (and flash drives for the family.). I have over (2000) combined 35mm and 126 (28 x 28mm) slides in 2" x 2" cardboard frames. This is my first experience and I'm still in the process of learning enough technical information to make a wise choice on a converter.

    Been using the Internet to review different brands & models of converters, specifications and cost, but haven't made a decision yet, so open to your suggestions. Being retired on a tight budget, I'm limited to about $100.00 for this expenditure.

    I've been looking at Slide2PC converters mostly on Amazon.com, as I've purchased there in the past and have been pleased overall.

    Made a list of the following converter brands and still not finished investigating all.
    Legend: TBE = To Be Evaluated.

    Brands and Models on Amazon...………Evaluation
    -- Clear Click...………………………………..TBE
    -- Hammacher - Schlemmer………………....Over my budget.
    -- Invation……………………………………....TBE
    -- ION...………………………………………....TBE
    -- Jumbl………………………………………....TBE
    -- Magnasonic………………………………….TBE
    -- Pyle...…………………………………………TBE
    -- Rybozen…………………………............…..Not available - Don't know when.
    -- Wolverine...…………………………………..Over my budget.
    -- Zonoz………………………………………....TBE.

    Thanks in advance for any advice or comments you think will assist me to make a choice. Also, feel free to recommend
    other unit(s) that you have used if within my budget or very close. I prefer New with warranty, not Used.

    Slide2PCme :D
  7. Chester AP

    Chester AP Well-Known Member

    I suspect that most of the less expensive models all come from the same factory in China.
    They use a lens to focus on your slide or negative, and use the small digital sensor to take the picture. So the image created will, at best, be comparable with a simple compact digital camera. But (and this is the important bit), if you only want to view the images on a PC screen or tablet, the picture quality should be good enough.

    Note that they are not film scanners, but small sensor digital cameras designed for a specific use. True scanners are more complex and expensive devices in which the slide or negative is usually moved past a fixed sensor, and will generate other file formats as well as JPG files. These other file formats will allow more adjustment by photo-editing software later if required.

    If you ever want to get large prints done, any weakness in the digital image will be more obvious. In this case, a printing lab will get the best image by scanning your slide on their own high-resolution scanner and printing from that.

    A suggestion - if you have a large flat-screen television with a USB port, or a connected DVD player with a USB port, try copying some of the JPG digital images onto a USB stick and viewing them on the big screen. Even an 'HD' screen is only 1920 x 1080 pixels (about 2 megapixels), and old slides that have been converted to JPG files can look really good like this. If you have any basic photo-editing software on a PC, try cropping the landscape format slides to 16 x 9 ratio and resizing them to exactly fit the screen (so 1920 x 1080 in the example above).

    For example, this is an example of an Ektachrome slide I took in 1999, scanned on a very old Minolta film scanner to get a 10 megapixel JPG file, and edited to a 1920 x 1080 image as described above. If you click on the images you should be able to 'save as' on a PC. Try it on your TV.

    Attached Files:

    Slide2PCme likes this.
  8. Slide2PCme

    Slide2PCme Member

  9. Slide2PCme

    Slide2PCme Member

    Thanks Chester AP for your reply-post #27 !
    Lots of good information and the picture in Venice is beautiful ! :)

    I have approximately (2000) color 35mm slides from the late 1950's and 60's to load into my PC and also selected groups to flash drives as gifts to the family and need an inexpensive slide-to-computer converter.

    Being retired on a modest fixed income from SS, I really can't justify more than approximately $100.00 for this expenditure. I've been looking at the Slide2PC converters advertised on Amazon and e-Bay and reading tutorials on the Internet to absorb enough techno-babble to hopefully make wise choice. Very few sellers include the type of sensor (CCD or CMOS) used in their products. I know the old reliable is the CCD, but CMOS has become popular.

    Cheers !
  10. steveandthedogs

    steveandthedogs Well-Known Member

  11. Chester AP

    Chester AP Well-Known Member

    Whatever slide copier you use, make sure that the slides are as free of dust as possible.
    A cheap 'blower brush' from a photographic shop will help.

    If you plan to copy 2,000 slides you need to think first about how you want to organise the storage of them on your PC. If this is a new concept to you, consider storing 2,000 books in your house - would you group them by author, subject, or in the order in which you purchased them? Putting all 2,000 images in the Windows default 'Pictures' folder will make it very difficult to find a specific one when you want it. Instead, organise your pictures into folders by subject or location and name the folders accordingly. You could also prepare folders for specific people with selected images in them (you can copy the same image into more than one folder). Then, when you prepare USB sticks, just copy a folder instead of many individual images. Also, when you have 2,000 images carefully organised on your PC hard drive, what happens if the drive fails? You also need to find out about doing a regular backup (copy) of them to an external portable hard disc. If you create a folder called (for example) 'Scanned Slides', and have all the sub-folders for locations or people within that folder, when you copy to an external hard disc you just need to copy the 'Scanned Slides' folder and all the subfolders within it will automatically be copied too. This is where planning ahead pays off.

    Also, as mentioned on the AP advice pages recently, some of your slides may have suffered in storage and have a slight colour cast.
    You can probably rescue these by using some photo editing software on a PC to adjust the colour. Also, if any of the slides have a colour cast because you used daylight film indoors under 'yellow' light bulbs or 'blue' strip lights, you can sometimes correct the image for this too.

    The advice above about special slide copier attachments to use the digital SLR cameras is worth trying if you have a suitable camera, otherwise it is way beyond your budget. If so, one of the Chinese copiers is the most practical solution for you.

    A final thought - if you do have a PC, and email, you could attach a JPG image to an email and sent it to somebody like that. This is not practical for a large number of images, but fine for one or two. Note that emails are not secure, so don't send anything very personal like this.
  12. swanseadave

    swanseadave Well-Known Member

    Slide 2Pcme,You quote prices in dollars which leads me to think you are in USA.Would I be right?

    Also take the time to fill in the profile page so we know a little more about you.
  13. Slide2PCme

    Slide2PCme Member


    Thanks for the suggestions, but I prefer to go with a Slide2PC converter. ;)

  14. Slide2PCme

    Slide2PCme Member


    Yes! I'm a U.S.A. natural-born citizen, age 77, married over 50 years with 3-sons, 5-grandchildren and retired from the metalworking industry in Sales (gears to customer's blueprints and custom designed transmissions).

    I'll get around to fully filling-in my Profile information, including a new Avatar, asap. Thanks for the prompt !

    Cheers !
  15. Slide2PCme

    Slide2PCme Member

    Thanks for the very informative post Chester AP and thanks to everyone else contributing to this thread ! Great source of knowledge for novice's. ;)

  16. Chester AP

    Chester AP Well-Known Member

    Good luck, and if you find any pictures you think we might enjoy, put some on the Gallery.

    I know this appears pedantic, but it might be worth checking the correct use of an apostrophe. I read the last sentence twice trying to work out if there was a word missing at the end (what was it that belonged to the novice?), and decided there wasn't one.
    peterba likes this.
  17. Slide2PCme

    Slide2PCme Member

    Chester AP,

    :oops: Thanks for reminding me that apostrophe s indicates possession; I should have typed it novices. Humble pie is good for me every now and then ! Notice I did spell the last word "then", not "than" as so many do. Hopefully that evens my score. ;)

    peterba likes this.
  18. Chester AP

    Chester AP Well-Known Member

    Usually I ignore apostrophe abuse because many younger members haven't even mastered capital letters or basic grammar yet, so what they are trying to say is not always obvious (I suspect sometimes even to them). But since you are a mature adult too, I thought I might see if you took offence or had a sense of humour. My guess was correct and the latter is true.

    Have you purchased a slide copier yet?

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