1. This site uses cookies. By continuing to use this site, you are agreeing to our use of cookies. Learn More.

Hello from Manchester

Discussion in 'Introductions...' started by chris hallows, Dec 25, 2018.

  1. chris hallows

    chris hallows Active Member

    Hi there to everyone, I have been into photography since the late 70's. It was a choice at the time between a Pentax MX and a Olympus OM1, I Chose the Pentax mx. Now after several years using small point and shoot digital cameras, and then using a Samsung smart phone's camera, I decided to get somthing a touch better. So I have bought a s/h Olympus OMD EM5/2, I have only had it a few days so just getting my old head around it. Its nice and compact and light, I do a lot of walking so a heavy camera was out of the question. I have joined here for inspiration and in case I need any help.
    chris hallows
     
  2. steveandthedogs

    steveandthedogs Well-Known Member

    Merry Christmas!

    S
     
    chris hallows likes this.
  3. Geren

    Geren Well-Known Member

    Hello, welcome and Merry Christmas!
     
    chris hallows likes this.
  4. chris hallows

    chris hallows Active Member

    Thank you guys, merry Christmas to all.......and of course a Happy New Year....
     
  5. Chester AP

    Chester AP Well-Known Member

    I went through the digital 'learning curve' when moving from an MX too, but I got A Pentax K10 so that I could try some of the lenses I already owned. You will find some things confusing, but one thing I've learned is that it's often pointless looking at your images at the maximum magnification a PC screen allows. What may look poor at this level will often produce excellent prints and at a larger size than you expect. I now have a 16 megapixel APS-C Pentax K5 DSLR which can produce decent prints at 50 x 75 cm, as long as a decent lens was used and the I've got all the technical stuff right.

    You can take thousand of shots at no cost apart from your time, and look at them on a PC screen soon after taking them, so it's possible to learn from your mistakes quite quickly. My problem has always been, whilst patience and experience help me get the shot with all the technical stuff correct, it's just as hard as ever take the 'perfect' picture.

    Have fun, and put some of your favourite shots in the AP Gallery (best if resized to 800 - 1000 pixels on the longer side).
     
    chris hallows likes this.
  6. chris hallows

    chris hallows Active Member

    Thank you Chester yes I have been taking digital pics for some time. I did have a Fuji F550exp which took some good pics but I damaged the lens assembly and found out parts were unavailable to repair. On this pc I have lots of storage space to keep pics so no problem there. I have also bought a adapter so I can have some fun with my Pentax lenses on this Olympus in manual mode of course. I still have a lot to learn about this camera but I am finding my way around, I have put a couple of my pics taken with my smart phone in the appraisal gallery, feel free to comment on them. Chris Hallows
     
  7. PeteRob

    PeteRob Well-Known Member

    It is often useful to use a 100% view to check sharpness. There is no point to go beyond this unless you are editing at pixel level. I generally do a precheck on images at "fit" (whole image on screen), then if they're not total rubbish, 50% (image 1/4 original pixels) and 100 % ( original pixels).
     
  8. Chester AP

    Chester AP Well-Known Member

    Sounds about right - I usually check a small area of the image at 100% to check if any sharpness has been overdone, and often reduce the level slightly (I believe that 'over sharpened' images look much worse when printed than 'under sharpened' ones). If the image has a subject isolated by a shallow depth of field, I often create the JPG for printing from the RAW file and apply no sharpening (by turning of the default sharpening), and then use a localised 'unsharp mask' adjustment. This avoids the software trying to sharpen out of focus areas which appears to emphasise any digital noise if high ISO has been used.

    If you asked 10 Forum members about how they sharpen images for printing, you'll probably get 10 different answers.
    I have managed to find a way of getting a consistent quality that I like from commercially printed pictures so I stick with it. The CEWE Photoworld website allows you to turn off 'automatic image optimisation', and using this I've recently had an A2 calendar printed where I'm happy with every picture. Other online printers may offer this choice to, but beware printing in high street shops where if you ask the question they often don't know what you mean.
     
  9. chris hallows

    chris hallows Active Member

    What you guys are saying, well some of it, is still beyond me at the moment. I have been doing a lot of reading in magazzines and sites like this,so I am still learning. I think I will probably learn a lot from experimenting when taking my pictures. My printer only does A4 so I will see how it goes, its no use me trying to run before I can walk. Any way thanks for the comments I think I understand what you are saying about sharpness of the images.
     
  10. PeteRob

    PeteRob Well-Known Member

    That's because the two posts were at cross purposes.

    I was talking about whether the image as recorded was in focus/free of blurring through movement, which we tend to call sharp.

    Chester was talking about something else, a standard step in image processing called sharpening, which enhances edge definition and emphasises small detail. With modern pixel counts it is far less important than it used to be in the days of 2 and 3 MP cameras but every image processing program will have a sharpening control, including the one built into your camera (leave it alone!). If sharpening is overdone it most commonly shows as a white line alongside straight edges, usually those that border the sky. If very overdone the whole image looks unnatural.

    The main reason people overdo sharpening is to try to compensate for blurring from subject and/or camera movement, and/or poor focus, i.e try to turn a picture that is not "sharp" (in my meaning above) into a picture that is. That is in most cases an exercise doomed to failure.

    To further complicate, in printing with ink-jets the spread of the dots can blur edges a smidgeon so there is some sharpening (called output sharpening) applied in printing but it's not something to be concerned about on a day-to-day basis. If making big exhibition prints then perhaps there is a need to get fussy and modify an image specifically for printing on a particular printer but for most purposes it is dealt with a low/medium/high option in a print module.
     
    chris hallows likes this.
  11. Chester AP

    Chester AP Well-Known Member

    You're right - it can be confusing. As I said in post #5, I went through the 'learning curve' on this too and remember it.
    But taking pictures and comparing the camera's settings and the image you get will help you a lot.
    If you get the exposure and focus right, using the camera body's default sharpness settings should give an image capable of decent prints at A4 or larger. It's when you want to get decent prints at much larger sizes that the technical stuff becomes more important, so probably something to save until you've mastered the basics.

    However, I don't do my own printing (for the number of prints I want I could never qualify the cost of the hardware and inks, hence my efforts to get the best from commercial printers), but I've read on the Forum and in AP that printing at home also has its own 'learning curve'. If you have problems with this, there will always be somebody on the Forum will know the answer.
     
    chris hallows likes this.
  12. Bill Stewardson

    Bill Stewardson Well-Known Member

    Hello to you Chris.

    Mcr has some fine tall buildings and older architecture to go at.
    Welcome to the forums.

    Bill.
     
    chris hallows likes this.

Share This Page