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E6 home processing

Discussion in 'Everything Film' started by brian_parker, Feb 3, 2006.

  1. Hi everyone
    I have just taken the plunge and developed my first E6 film, using the Jessops Photochem kit. The film was Fuji Velvia 50. I am disappointed that the slides have an overall blue cast. Can anyone tell me where I went wrong, as I followed the instructions to the letter, using my Jobo CPE-2 Processor? I read in the Jobo literature that it is advisable to add an extra minute to the first development time for Fuji films, but there was no mention of this in the Jessops leaflet. Would this make a difference to the colour rendering? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in anticipation
    Brian Parker
     
  2. Malcolm_Stewart

    Malcolm_Stewart Well-Known Member

    I did a lot of E6 35mm processsing in a Jobo Duolab rotary tank system a few years ago. I remember doing several films before I'd sorted out pre-heating, temperature, aeration of the solutions (went to one shot processing to cure), de-ionised water for the rinse, stabiliser etc.

    At that time, the best resource for queries like yours was the Jobo USA website. That fantastic resource appears now to have disappeared. (The Kodak site at the time seemed to be tilted towards the professional processing of E6.)
    I suggest you google for "Jobo USA E6" and trawl through the many responses. I also got a lot of help using the Google Groups archives - search for "Jobo E6 3bath" or similar.

    When I'd sorted out the other problems I've listed, I certainly found that Fuji films appreciated some extra time in the first developer, compared with Kodak & Agfa.

    Good luck
     
  3. Benchista

    Benchista Which Tyler

    From memory, I think a blue cast is indicative of out-of-range temperature. It's a long time since I've done any E6, and never used my CPE-2 for it, so I could well be wrong, though. I know magenta is normally a sign of exhausted colour dev, but I'm not certain about blue.
     
  4. Thank you Malcolm and Nick
    I shall certainly follow up your suggestions. The developer is newly purchased, so I don't think the reason is exhausted chemicals. And I shall give that extra minute in the first developer for Fuji films, and let you know how I get on. If the weather perks up, I shall be out with the camera again this weekend.
    Thanks again
    Brian
     
  5. CHIPS

    CHIPS Well-Known Member

    Jobo Usa site was excellent when I used to use the rotary somewhat more. It might be wise to test the processor temperature ie actually measure with a thermometer rather than take the dial reading as correct - mine has never been as stable as it ought and I always work with a digital thermometer in the water or the chemicals.
     
  6. Benchista

    Benchista Which Tyler

    Agreed. The dial is only a guide, IMVHO.
     
  7. Thanks folks
    I feel that the temperature might have been out, perhaps a little on the warm side. I checked the chemicals with the Jobo spirit thermometer that came with the kit. Presumably a digital thermometer is more accurate. I will look out for one.
    Today I did the exercise again wih Velvia 100F. This is for Module Two of the AP Diploma Course. I will develop the film tomorrow, extending the time of the first developer by a minute as recommended on the Jobo website and let you know how I get on.
    Best wishes
    Brian
     
  8. Hi everyone
    I developed the slides today and they are much better. I have realised that it is necessary to increase the time of the first developer by a minute for Fuji films. I also aerated the bleach/fix as the Jobo site recommends. The slides are not brilliant, perhaps because I re-used the chemicals, but the densities are OK, and they illustrate the technical points we were asked to address in the Module. I'm on a learning curve.
    Thanks for listening
    Brian
     
  9. Malcolm_Stewart

    Malcolm_Stewart Well-Known Member

    It was some time before I picked up on the blix aeration business, and I found that I could then get better results by altering my camera's ISO a little.


    I think you may have got away with it with just 4 days approx between sessions, but I seem to remember that 2 days was the recommended max time. Hence my earlier comment about 1 shot processing. Lovely consistent results, but more expensive than paying others to do the job for me!
     
  10. Thanks for your input, Malcolm
    Could you elaborate on the alteration to your camera's ISO please?
    Brian
     
  11. Malcolm_Stewart

    Malcolm_Stewart Well-Known Member

    My first few films were processed without activating the blix by giving it a good shake before use. This meant that the film didn't clear properly, and the slides were somewhat muddy. After blix activation my slides were lighter, so I tried a higher ISO - about 1/3 stop from memory.

    In the end I was very confident in my processing, and I was able to fine tune the overall slide density by varying the time of the first developer by the equivalent of 1/6 stop! (I was using an EOS3 which gives very consistent exposures.) But that did involve checking, fine adjusting, and re-checking the temperature inside the tank for the first development.

    I filled a small note book with the adjustments (one at a time) and their effects. Then I bought an EOS10D etc. and it's so long since doing any E6 at home, that I don't trust the chemicals anymore.

    I just might get back to home E6 as last night I projected my few last summer's holiday slides (processed by Peak Imaging) and had a good feeling that I haven't had seeing them on my light box or computer monitor!
     
  12. airscrew

    airscrew Member

    I just thought I'd mention that I use the same kit as the original post on this thread. The Jessops Photochem kit is excellent. I have never had a problem developing any colour films, and all I use is a standard Paterson Developing tank and a washing up bowl half filled with water at the correct 38 degrees temperature. Temperature control must be adhered to when processing colour film. I'm puzzled as to why there have been suggestions requiring the first development to be increased by one minute. I have only gone by Jessops instructions and results were consistent for all the six films this kit will process. You only should increase development time after the second film has been through the process. Glad to see people are still using film.
     
  13. Benchmark

    Benchmark Well-Known Member

    I am surprised that you were able to buy a Jessops E6 kit. I was told by Jessops that the kits were discontinued some time ago, and the last kit I bought was well out of date.

    TBH I was very disappointed by the results, which were dark and muddy, and have now moved to the five litre Tetenal kits (from Morco) for both C41 and E6. I find these excellent, and would thoroughly recommend them.

    Aeration of the Blix also helps a lot, and produces much clearer looking films (both E6 and C41).

    ---------

    Nigel.
     
  14. rachieee

    rachieee New Member

    Re: E6 processing

    Hi
    i would like to do some E6 processing
    but i only have films which say C-41 on them so does this mean i would be cross processing
    or i would have to buy another film which can be processed in E6 processing ?
    help im a bit confussed

    also i would like to have an SLR digital camera
    what do you think of a Sony A200 ?
    thanks =]
    Rachael
    x
     
  15. Malcolm_Stewart

    Malcolm_Stewart Well-Known Member

    Re: E6 processing

    You need a slide film - something like a Fuji Astia, Provia or Velvia. Or there's Ektachrome from Kodak.

    Try here - Mailshots web page

    I've always had by return service from them.
     
  16. Benchmark

    Benchmark Well-Known Member

    Re: E6 processing

    Hi Rachel,
    E6 and C41 films are completely different.

    E6 films are transparency (slide films), which can be viewed directly. Well known examples include Fuji Velvia, Sensia and Kodak Elite Chrome. These tend to be more specialist films, and are not always easy to find on the high street.

    C41 films are known as colour negative films, and are used to make colour prints; either by enlarging directly onto photographic paper, or more often nowadays, by electronic scanning and printing. Well known examples include Fuji Superia, Kodak Portra and many others available on the high street.

    You can cross process C41 films in E6 (or vice versa), but this is an advanced technique used to create unusual colours and effects.

    C41 processing kits are available (try Morco at Mansfield), but you would probably be better taking them to a high street store such as Jessops unless you plan to do a lot of processing and have the ability to maintain accurate time and temperature control.

    HTH.
     
  17. rachieee

    rachieee New Member

    Re: E6 processing

    ohh
    i understand it know thanks a lot =]
    Rachael
    x
     

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