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taking pics

Discussion in 'Talking Pictures' started by nps, Jan 14, 2013.

  1. Cuthbert

    Cuthbert Well-Known Member

    One of the possible problems with deleting things using the computer is that computers usually buffer access to storage devices - that is a portion of the memory card is copied to the computer memory, and for a while the computer works on this rather than on the card as its faster to access computer RAM than the SD card. Eventually the 'buffer' in the computer will be written back to the SD card - but if you've deleted something, it could be that for a little while the tables used to say where things are on the card don't exactly match what the computer thinks they should. If you properly eject the card (e.g. using the Windows eject function) you'll get a message to say either the card is in use, or it's safe to eject. If it's safe to eject it means all the buffers are written back to the card.

    If you pull the card out before it's safe to eject, or your computer freezes or you lose power it is possible that the information on the card is a bit scrambled.

    Another problem that can occur (not sure about the Pentax, but it happens with the cameras I have), if you edit an image on the card (even if you just rotate it and rotate it back again - very easy to do if you plug the card into the computer and you're reviewing pictures on screen), it is possible the camera won't see the image again - cameras usually 'sign' the images (the EXIF data contains information about the camera and how it is set), and if the image changes in any way from what it is expecting (i.e. how it was when it was originally shot), it may complain.
  2. AlexMonro

    AlexMonro Old Grand Part Deux

    Good points, Simon, which I hadn't thought of.

    I usually write protect the card before putting it in the reader, and then do a complete copy, which avoids the risk of the computer messing with anything. The camera soon tells me if I forget to write enable it again! :)

    The only time I've had corruption problems was when I forgot to format a brand new card in the camera.
  3. AlexMonro

    AlexMonro Old Grand Part Deux

    Program mode ("P" on the mode dial) on the K30 is very flexible - what Pentax call "Hyper Program". You can change shutter speed and aperture just by turning the front and rear dials respectively (as long as you haven't changed the default setup) and instantly return to the auto setting by pressing the green button. You can also use use exposure compensation by pressing the +/- button next to the shutter release and turning the rear dial (manual P.90).

    If you turn on the Bright / Dark warning and Histogram display in the Instant Review (and possibly increase the display time) (manual p.212) you'll get immediate feedback on whether the shot's over or underexposed.
  4. nps

    nps Well-Known Member

    cheers peeps some info there for me to work with some confusing though :rolleyes:

    looks like the P setting it is then (the auto mode is set and cant be moved) i was trying to use the M mode and it was hard to sort it out because i had to change everything but the P mode is tonnes better because has I change one setting it auto sets the other for me and then i can fine tune:)

    Ill see if i have any pics to post for you to look at and take the micky. Ill get out at the weekend again to take some more using the P setting and see how i go
  5. PeteRob

    PeteRob Well-Known Member

    Yes the Program mode was invented to improve the chances of a good exposure by selecting both the aperture and exposure time to let in the appropriate light while,if possible, keeping the exposure time short enough to avoid camera shake. Cameras used to have a graph in the manual showing the "program" for different film speeds. Program shift lets you move along the curve keeping the exposure constant, so if aperture gets smaller the exposure time gets longer. Exposure compensation will move you along the curve by changing the amount of light the program reacts to. Necessary sometimes because the camera always tries to make an average picture A white wall will look greyish by default and need more exposure, a black wall will need less to make it black not grey. In manual you have to set everything yourself. It is useful in "difficult" lighting when the camera might be jumping around its settings - if a procession of black-white-black-white. were passing but the light itself wasn't changing then manual is useful - for just one example. The great thing about digital is you always have the settings recorded so you can understand the results. In film days you needed to carry a notebook and wrte them down!
  6. nps

    nps Well-Known Member

    could anyone help me with deciding which lens i might buy

    18-55 but i dont think the zoom is good enough but i dont really know what the 18-55 means
    Ive had a look on some of the digi cameras i have in the house but they dont tell me what they are, if that makes sense

    im not after one that zooms for miles but something that is good and has got a longer zoom. I was looking to hire one for our jollies in june but they are £250+ (couldnt find one for the pentax so that price was for a canon, should imagine theyd be the same-ish)

    told ya all i dont know anything about cameras

    P.S im not just posting on here because I cant not be bothered to google for the answear because i have googled but dont really understand
  7. Fen

    Fen Well-Known Member

    You probably won't find anywhere that hires out Pentax lenses. Lens hire companies tend to hire stock that is popular and used by the majority of people, it will mostly be Canon and Nikon gear (and medium format gear). There wouldn't be any profit in them purchasing (I apologise for this) equipment for 'niche' markets.
  8. Roger_Provins

    Roger_Provins Well-Known Member

    SRS Microsystems have Pentax lenses for hire.

    Last edited: Jan 29, 2013
  9. Fen

    Fen Well-Known Member

    But SRS aren't widely known as a camera/lens hire company. In fact I've been shopping there for years and never knew that.

    Also, apart from your link I can't find anything else on their website saying that they hire out equipment. Nothing on the site map or doing a search. :confused:
  10. thornrider

    thornrider In the Stop Bath

    If you Google Pentax Lens Hire - SRS comes up and they typically charge £40 for 3 days - a bit more for a week
  11. nps

    nps Well-Known Member

    cheers chaps but £40 for 3 days wouldnt be much good anyway because id want it for atleast 28
  12. AlexMonro

    AlexMonro Old Grand Part Deux

    18-55mm is the focal length of the kit lens you got with your K30. This is pretty typical for a kit lens as supplied with most introductory and mid level DSLRs, and zooms from moderate wide angle (18mm) to moderate telephoto (55mm), with a zoom ratio of approximately 3x (55/18).

    Not certain I've fully understood what you're asking for here, but if you're looking for longer telephoto reach, possibly your best bet might be to buy the Pentax 55-300/3-5.8, which is one of the better performers in the price range. There's a 2nd hand one currently available at Ffordes for just under 190 quid, only slightly more than the cost of hiring one from SRS for 28 days. If that's a bit steep. there's also the 50-200/4-5.6 at just under 60 quid, but it's generally reckoned to be a slightly worse performer optically at the range they both cover, and obviously doesn't have quite as much reach.

    Having the lens for a while before your travels is probably a good idea - give you some time for practice. You need slightly different technique to get the best from a long tele, especially handheld.

    Perhaps it might help if you told us what you need the longer telephoto reach for (assuming I've understood correctly) - wildlife, sport, airshows etc.?

    You might find this Understanding Lenses tutorial at Cambridge in Colour helpful.
  13. AlanClifford

    AlanClifford Well-Known Member

    Have a play here.
  14. PeteRob

    PeteRob Well-Known Member

    [​IMG] Originally Posted by nps [​IMG]
    but i dont really know what the 18-55 means

    The numbers refer to the lens focal length. In thus case it is a zoom so a range is indicated. On a crop sensor body, like many DSLRs, a value of about 30. gives a field of view a bit like the human eye if you stare at simething in the middle distance. Going smaller zooms out so the view looks "bigger" and distant objects look small compared to your expectation, going bigger zooms in so the field of view is snaller and distant objects look larger than you would expect. 18-55 on a Canon gives a useful range for general purpose photography but 55 is not very "long" as lenses go. Many people add another going from 55 up to 200 or 300 or so.

    The lens calculators in the other links give some idea.
  15. nps

    nps Well-Known Member

    Alan that link is brill!! it explains about the lenses without needing to read anything.
    I think the 18-105 is about all ill need. now to have a look to see of o can find any cheap sellers

    thanjks to everyone else too (wish there was a thanks button to press on peoples posts)
  16. joolz

    joolz Active Member

    sorry for jumping onto your thread. like you i have just bought my first camera. i have just read all the good advice given on here. so thank you for the advice from me too. will start taking lots of shots :)
  17. Just a note on corrupted memory cards... I've only experienced it once, on a cheapy unbranded XD card that I'd got from ebay.

    I googled for "xd card recovery" or similar and found a freeware program (can't remember what it was called) which successfully recovered the pictures I'd taken - however the card was toast thereafter.

    It also recovered some pictures from a wedding which I'd not attended, suggesting that the card I'd bought "new" was in fact second-hand...

    Don't repeat my mistake - buy a new, branded memory card from somewhere reputable - but if it does fail you *may* still be able to recover the images you've taken.

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