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taking pics

Discussion in 'Talking Pictures' started by nps, Jan 14, 2013.

  1. nps

    nps Well-Known Member

    i know what cards it takes but im trying to find out which ones are best, sd sdhc flash card. ive seen a 16gb rated 10 for something like £9 if i remember right

    will the lens be ok without the cap being on in the bag? I dont want to be scratching it the thing has cost me enough lol

    ive seen this bag

    the daughter has been using the camera and from what i have noticed is her face is pushed right up against the camera, is there a longer eye cup (if thats what they are called) that can be fitted and are the infared remotes any good? they are on ebay for about a fiver

    sorry for all the questions if they seem stupid or repetitive i just want to makes sure i get everything right for when I go in june
  2. AlexMonro

    AlexMonro Old Grand Part Deux

    Flash Card, or Flash Memory Card, is a generic term for all types of memory cards - there is a specific type called Compact Flash (CF), which is only used by a few high end models now. Your K30 can use SD, SDHC (an improved version of SD allowing bigger capacity and faster read/write speed) and possibly the latest revision, SDXC, allowing even more capacity and speed - check the manual.

    The original SD spec only allowed for capacity up to 2GB, which is rather small for todays raw files and video, and you'll probably only find them in clearance sales. Most memory cards these days are SDHC, which go up to 32GB. The come in various speed classes, C4, C6 and C10 - used to be the fastest, but there's now a higher speed standard called UHS1 - I don't think the K30 supports this, but check the manual. Some makes quote the reading and writing speeds in kB/s as well. There's not a lot of point in having a card with a write speed faster than the camera can write to it (unless you've got a fast card reader on your computer and want a fast read speed), so once again, check the manual. A class 10 will probably be OK, and they're fairly cheap now.

    As to size, it depends on whether you shoot raw or JPEG or video, how much of a hassle you find it to change cards, and how you feel about the risk of losing a card with everything on it - either physically losing the card, or it becoming corrupted. I mostly use 8GB cards in my K20D, shooting raw-JPEG, and get about 200 shots per card. You'd probably get slightly fewer with the higher pixel count K30 - there's probably a section in the manual about that too.

    BTW, to reduce the risk of memory corruption, I'd suggest that you never delete images individually or format a card on the computer, but always clear a card for re-use by formatting in the camera, after you've copied all the images to the computer (and checked that they have actually copied! :)) The most reputable makes include Sandisk, Lexar, and Kingston, but I've had no problems with the cheaper Transcend and Danelec cards I've used. I have heard of people having problems with cheap cards on Ebay.
    Last edited: Jan 24, 2013
  3. AlexMonro

    AlexMonro Old Grand Part Deux

    Probably not a bad price from a reputable supplier. I generally use Picstop, Premier Ink, and 7dayShop. Also see my other post.

    I'd strongly suggest making sure the lens cap is on before putting the camera in the bag, or even any time you're not actually taking photos. I've had I couple of times when a lens cap has fallen off in the bad, which gave me an anxious moment, but I've benn lucky so far. Modern lens coatings are quite tough, but why risk it?

    That's for cameras that are rather smaller than the K30, I doubt it would fit. I'd suggest you go to a camera shop so you can try out how it fits in various bags. Some makes of bags (Tamrac, Lowepro) have add pouches that can strapped on to some of their bags so if you get another lens or flashgun you don't need to get another bag.

    Some cameras have extension viewfinders available, but I haven't seen any for the K30.

    An IR remote can be useful, put unless it was the actual Pentax made one, I think I'd prefer to buy from a shop where I can check that it works with the camera.

    Best thing to do is to try to get out practicing as much as possible before then! :)
  4. Snorri

    Snorri Well-Known Member

    The aswers You got are good. As for the string thing for the lens cap, it has plastic "buttons" on the ends that have sticky tape on them so you stick one end to the cap and the other to the lens. I have never used these so not sure how good they are.
    I see your point in protecting the fron element of the lens, I still use UV filter on my lenses, true mordern sensors do not suffer from UV light like film did but having scrached a uv filter I'll rather replace on of them for a £20 than having the scatch on the fron of my lens...
    It looks like Lowepro has made a whole range of Toploader bags and none are called TLZ 1 anymore... But as far as I can see from the pictures this would be it but yes take your camera gear to a good shop and try the bags out, nothing like a hands on when buying. Alternitave would be goin to a shop that sells the K30 andget there demo camera to test with :rolleyes:
  5. PeteRob

    PeteRob Well-Known Member

    I meant put the cap in the bag when not using the cap. Put it back on the lens when not using the camera to take pictures. Always have the cap on the camera in the bag. Either use cap, lenshood or both when camera carried loose and not taking pics.

    The only reason for saying put it in the bag is that this makes it easier to find, it saves running through all your pockets or, as at last Christmas down the back of all the armchairs (which didn't help much).

    I have always found it best to try a bag out with the equipment I want to carry, it is impossible to tell from adverts. My current bag is advertised to carry " pro DSLR and 2 lenses". I can get one body and one lens in it but only if they are separated. Admittedly the body, a 1D, is big - it does not fit at all in the holster type bag I carry my 5D+24-105 in and I had to try several holsters to find one that took that combination.
  6. nps

    nps Well-Known Member

    thanks for your reply mate
    the camera takes SD SDHC OR SDXC so i guess the sdhc or the sdxc or the best options..
    i mentioned the 'flash card' after reading this (i thought that 'flash card' was a generic name for all cards)
    Secure Digital (SD) is the most widespread format, and come in various different capacities and speeds. Memory Stick is a proprietary format developed by Sony and as a result is found mainly in Sony devices. CompactFlash is a standard specifically developed for digital cameras and is now most commonly used in higher-end SLRs

    why not delete from the comp?

    the thing about going to a camera shop is, there isnt any near me or not any that i can find. I went to loads of places looking for one when i was trying to buy the K30
    ill have a look at those brands youv mentioned.

    thanks again for your help again (ill defo be back annoying you all lol)
  7. AlexMonro

    AlexMonro Old Grand Part Deux

    Sorry, I probably rambled on too much to be clear.

    SDHC are probably your best bet. SDXC, is the standard for high capacity cards (64GB or more) and being relatively new are more expensive in terms of £/GB.

    Something like this would probably suit you fine (I am just a happy customer of PremierInk, other suppliers are available! :))

    From all the online posts I've seen, here and on other forums, the majority of people posting to ask for help with corrupted memory cards used to do this. I don't have any hard evidence, but my conjecture is that the computer and the camera have slightly different ideas about the low level structure of the filesystem on the card, which in rare circumstances leads to corruption.

    So why risk it?

    Sorry, forgot you didn't have a camera shop nearby. I guess the best thing is to look at manufacturer's websites, check the specified dimensions, and measure everything carefully. I can certainly say that both Lowepro and Tamrac bags (I have several of each make) seem to be very well made.

    You might want to think a bit about the sort of bag you're looking for. I started with a Lowepro Toploader Zoom bag, just big enough for the camera with lens fitted, and a front pocket for spare battery, polariser & memory card. Later I got a Tamrac Velocity 7 sling bag, which had room for 2 extra lenses (one being a tiny pancake DA 40/2,8) and more filters and other bits. Later I added a couple of strap on lens pouches, so I can now carry all my basic kit in one convenient shoulder bag, and easily access everything on the move. It does get a little uncomfortable on long walks - say over a mile.
  8. nps

    nps Well-Known Member

    cheers Alex for the link and advice mate. ive had a quick look at the link and that seems like a good price. The thing with memory cards is ive never looked at them before ive just bought one and never thought about what they are.
    Have you tried one of these yet?? http://www.eye.fi/

    Ill always delete from the camera after your advice.

    ill go look at the bags now

    cheers mate
  9. nps

    nps Well-Known Member

  10. thornrider

    thornrider In the Stop Bath

  11. nps

    nps Well-Known Member

    :( i thought 30 was high and good:( well live and learn
  12. AlexMonro

    AlexMonro Old Grand Part Deux

    30 MB/s is probably fast enough for the K30, unless you plan on doing a lot of burst mode action shooting. Finding info on the actual write speed of the K30 is hard, though I do note that DPreview did their speed tests with a 90MB/s card. Extrapolating from their full buffer frame rate figures suggests that the camera is limited to about 45MB/s.

    By the way, just to clarify my earlier point, it's probably best to Format the memory card in the camera after uploading the images to the computer. Formatting re-initialises the data structures on the card, so giving the camera a "clean sheet". Deleting individual files, even in the camera, can lead to memory fragmentation, which can cause slower write speeds, and may possibly be another source of potential memory corruption.
  13. nps

    nps Well-Known Member

    bladdyhell ill not dare delete anything now lol

    ive been out today taking pics in the snow while messing about with the settings. got some good pics and lots of crap ones but after being out with the camera i have learnt one thing even after reading and watching loads of web pages and that is its better to get out there and mess about with all the setting, glad i took a little note book with me
  14. AlexMonro

    AlexMonro Old Grand Part Deux

    Best way of learning - take loads of pictures. Even better - look at them carefully afterwards and think about why they turned out how they did. Best of all, have a notebook so you can make notes about what you did.

    Digital makes it easier 'coz the taking loads of pics doesn't cost anything, and the EXIF data which most image viewers can display tells you a lot of the settings used, but a notebook can record more stuff that isn't in the EXIF, such as what you were trying to do,

    If you get something that turned out differently to what you expected, and you can't think why, post it in the Appraisal Gallery or Help Team, and we'll try to help explain it.

    Glad you got some pics you were happy with - it's always encouraging. Maybe you'd like to post some of them?
  15. PeteRob

    PeteRob Well-Known Member

    WHS (what he said). It is important to really look at what you took but do not lose the fun component. Even if a picture is not technically perfect ( or half way there) does not mean it is "bad". I posted a tecnically awful shot on my Flickr from 2weeks ago. I had been using a 400 mm lens on a monopod, took it off and forgot to change the shutter speed from 1/250 to 1/500 as I hand held it for a low flying cormorant. So it is anything but sharp but I love it!
  16. nps

    nps Well-Known Member

    i havent had a good look at the pics ive taken yet but i will and ill have a think at what went wrong, maybe post some them that are totally different in settings, if that makes sense

    i was getting a bit peed off at some of the shots because after taking a shot i would look at the pic and try and change something to make it better but if i changed the f number it would make it too dark for instance so id change the 1/100 to something else and that make it even worse gggrrrrrr (im not explaining myself right)

    i need to understand how they both work together

    just out of interest is there anywhere that hires lens out? im a bit disappointed with this one 18-55, the zoom on it isnt very good

    cheers chaps
  17. southonline

    southonline Well-Known Member

    depends where abouts do you live?
  18. Snorri

    Snorri Well-Known Member


    It goes something like this, you need a certain amount of light to get the picture, this light you need to balance between three things the iso which is the sensitivity of the sensor, the aperture which is the amount of light the lens lets through and speed how fast you can get that light.
    the lover the iso the better quality you get that said I see no reason to go under iso 200 as I can't really see any improvement it picture quality. Aperture is a funny thing, the smaller the aperture (higher number) gives you better depth of field and minimises problems you might have with lens quality. the lens will be at it's best around f8 and up to f16-f20 above that you will see some minor distortion. But remember we can use aperture to our advantage using open lens (small number) will give narrow dof that is good to isolate your subject.
    Speed well the faster you go the less likely you are to be affected by camera shake and/or motion blur. The rule of thumb is that you need the speed to be equal to focal length (for hand held), this was on a full frame so I would say on a 18-55mm zoom you need speed of around 1/30 on the wide end and around 1/80 on the long end, Image stabilization will help you to shoot at lower speeds. Tripods, Mono pods, Sandbags and so on are your friends as well. As for motion blur that is an effect you might actually want, so controlling that is a art of its own.

    But back to balancing these three I find that I usually set one and let the camera take care of the other two. Iso is the usual suspect I try I set that to 200 or 400 sometimes I might set ether aperture or speed as well but usually I put iso on auto then.
  19. AlexMonro

    AlexMonro Old Grand Part Deux

    You might find this tutoral at Cambridge in Colour helpful.
  20. PeteRob

    PeteRob Well-Known Member

    Best thing is to use an auto mode. You can fine adjust it. The full manual mode where you change both the speed and tha aperture yourself really needs some preparation. Cameras usually have 3 (4) auto modes P (A) which is a program mode - sometimes there is a fully automatic mode as well - a difference CAN be that fully autopmatic will use flash while program will not - another may be that fully automatic will change the ISO setting.

    Then there are modes that you fix the aperture and the camera chooses shutter speed and vice-versa.

    Exposure compensation over-rides the camera setting - that is what most people do - let the camera get it about right and then fine-tune.

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