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Sony6000 ISO and lenses recommendations

Discussion in 'Sony Chat' started by Joerdeli, Apr 14, 2018.

  1. Joerdeli

    Joerdeli New Member

    Dear all

    I have a Sony6000 with a 55-210mm /4.5 lense, which I use for my football photography.
    I struggle with the right ISO during games.

    First of all, any suggestion what is the average ISO I should use in day nice game time and what under bad light conditions in evening games? Then I can adjust my speed.

    Second, any recommendation what lenses I could buy for my Sony6000 with a better aperture kinda 2.8 or so? its not easy to find through google the good recommendations. I am looking for sth like 70-200 or 70-300. thanks for the help

    I think I want to stick with my mirrorless, as all the SLR and huge lenses are too much of an investment for me. thanks.
     
  2. neilt3

    neilt3 Well-Known Member

    With most sport's photography I would recomend you have your camera set to shutter priority and the ISO set to automatic .
    You'll need a certain shutter speed to get the shot you want any way , and in shutter priority the camera will try to stop the lens down a bit but keeping the ISO at the right level ( when set to auto ISO) to ensure correct exposure .

    What mode/settings are your camera on ?
    Are you shooting in Manual or a pre-set ?

    Regarding lenses , without you stating a budget it's impossible to make any recomendation .

    What is wrong with the lens you are using ? I would guess your using at the 210mm end , which IIRC has an aperture of either f/5.6 or f/6.3 which is quite slow for lower light sport .

    If your looking for a 70-210mm f/2.8 lens , and you want a mirrorless camera rather than a DSLR because of size , that's a mistake .
    A 70-210mm f/2.8 lens is all about the same size and weight regardless of what camera system it is made for .
    That's physics for you !

    A mirrorless body like the a6000 is smaller than a DSLR when you mount small lenses on it only .

    I have a Sony NEX 7 , a few years older than yours , and I tend to have the 16-50mm lens on it for when I want a camera that fit's in my pocket for when I just go out etc .
    The rest of the time I use either a Sony a900 or a77ii . Larger lenses are better balanced on a DSLR for my liking . YMMV

    If your after a fast 70-210mm in Sony E mount you have two options ;
    One at £1149.00 with an aperture of f/4
    https://www.wexphotovideo.com/sony-...4b94229862d07d7c54383abd96e322e&utm_source=aw

    And one at £2499.00 with an aperture of f/2.8
    https://www.wexphotovideo.com/sony-...bb113553deccab682ffdd35b855d9cf&utm_source=aw

    If that's more than what you want to spend then you need to look at adapting another systems lenses with an adapter .
    Sony A mount or Canon EOS mount .

    I have a handfull of native lenses for my NEX 7 , but have both adapters for Canon and Sony/Minolta SLR/DSLR lenses that retain A/F .
    I rarely use the camera like this as I prefer the lenses on their native bodies with either film on digital .

    To help you further , what you need from your lens and budget are needed .
    With that information it'll be a lot easier to point you to the most suitable lens .
     
  3. Joerdeli

    Joerdeli New Member

    Hello

    Thanks for the informative reply. I own the lenses E 55-210mm F4.5-6.3 OSS | SEL55210 and 16-55mm f/3.5-5.6. Just important information. I never took a photography class and just learn day by day on my own. So all the help from this forum is so appreciated and great.



    Setting Issues with current camera equipment:

    1) I use to shoot Manuel with my 210 lenses the last few games and set shutter speed 800 during the football game, and changed my ISO all the time, which was annoying. Max ISO I use is 1600. It really depends on the stadium and if day or evening game. So you suggest Shutter Priority and ISO automatic? If I can improve my settings then I can still produce great pictures with my current camera for the time being. Check out my page to see where my issues lay: www.flickr.com/photos/joerdeli



    2) What I also struggle with is the focus. Sometimes I miss the great situation, and the pics turn out blurry. How can I change that? What setting is required.



    3) When I use my 55-210m lenses, I always have troubles for close photography. For example when I want to take the team photo before the start of the game, I have to step a few meter behind to get all of the players into my screen. But the other photographer with DSLR don’t have this issue, even though they use also 55mm or 70mm. Do I have something wrong with my setting?



    Investing in a new camera equipment:

    Unfortunate my budget is not too high as for the time being it’s more a hobby and I volunteer for magazine to photograph, so I don’t get paid. But as I still want to produce some great pics, I am rethinking into investing into a new lenses or a reasonable priced DSLR. Even buying a second-hand one is okay.



    Option staying with Sony6000:

    Is there an alternative option with adapter for my Sony, which comes close to 70-210mm f/2.8? Or even 70-300mm? Budget second-hand 1000 USD.



    Option with buying a DSLR:

    Is there a reasonable priced camera for fast sports photography and lenses 70-210 or 70-300mm f/2.8? Budget second-hand 3000 USD.



    Sorry for all the questions. I am pretty new in this sports photography and before investing in something I want to evaluate.

    I appreciate the support and recommendations.



    Kind regards
     
  4. PeteRob

    PeteRob Well-Known Member

    I don't know your camera or lenses so I can't help with specifics.

    For shooting action you need an exposure time that is short enough to freeze the action so choose an ISO that will let you get (say) 1/500 or less. Personally I set an aperture and ISO and let the exposure time take care of itself - it doesn't matter if it is less than the critical value for the sport - it is only if it is too long to freeze movement that matters. I only use manual (fix exposure time, aperture and ISO) if the light is constant and the action is taking place against a varying brightness background.

    Accurate focussing (even with AF) is a matter of practice and camera set-up. For action a follow-focus mode will help but generally you have to activate it at the right moment or it gets lost. The lens will have a focus acquisition delay too, so rapidly switching from one subject to another is harder with a slow-focus lens than a quick one. The camera will have several options for focussing. Generally use a single focus point rather than let the camera pick which one to use. The more sophisticated sports cameras will have an "interruptible" tracking system which will stay on one target even if someone runs between the camera and the target. A standard AF system will try to lock on to the interrupting body.

    If you are too close for your lens then you are too close. The normal solution is to have 2 cameras, each with different lenses on. Superzoom lenses aren't likely to be responsive enough for sport. If you are next to someone with the same focal length lens and they have a wider angle of view then they are using a camera with a bigger sensor than yours.

    I have no idea what lenses are available. I'd have expected Sony to have a 70-200 F2.8 in their line-up but such lenses are normally expensive. You won't find a 70-300 F2.8 - typically max aperture on such a zoom is F5.6. A 300 mm F2.8 prime lens is a desirable thing but costs several thousand.

    If I was buying a camera for sport I'd look at a Canon 7D ii (with grip) with a 70-300 F4-5.6 L or the 100-400 F4-5.6 mk ii L - depending on your priority wrt to close up or distance and the weight you want to carry. You might get the camera+either lens as a bundle for $3k assuming the US prices are same as UK with the $ replacing the £. As for everything do not buy until you try - you may hate it. I have the 100-400 mk II but I wouldn't want to hold it up to my eye all the way through a match. I haven't evaluated its focus acquisition time but it doesn't strike me as slow to use compared to the 400 F5.6 prime. You'd need a monopod to support it.
     

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