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Ghosts and Flares?

Discussion in 'Talking Pictures' started by Ross Hull, Apr 18, 2017.

  1. Ross Hull

    Ross Hull Member

    I was recently taking photos at a local music gig and noticed some blurry spots in some of my photos. Some other photos really just didn't look that sharp. When the lighting changed the sharpness got better. I also noticed that when the subject was closer there was no blurriness at all. Is this lens flares? If so how do I avoid them in the future? I don't have any of the photos as they were deleted for memory.

  2. PeteRob

    PeteRob Well-Known Member

    Sounds like flare. Strong side lighting can cause loss of contrast - which is why it is useful to use a lens hood. Point sources of light can cause internal reflections in the lens that can show up most often as oval or circular spots of varying size and intensity. Changes in sharpness of the main subject will indicate focus accuracy, the better lit the subject the easier the camera will focus, and subject movement. In poor light the exposure time will be longer unless using shutter priority or manual settings and the more likely that movement will register.
    Roger Hicks likes this.
  3. RovingMike

    RovingMike Crucifixion's a doddle...

    Are you sure your AF is working? Sounds a bit like focus could be fixed somewhere.
  4. Roger Hicks

    Roger Hicks Well-Known Member

    Dear Ross,

    Without the pictures, it's a bit hard to tell.


  5. RovingMike

    RovingMike Crucifixion's a doddle...

    That sounds like depth of field improved as the aperture closed up a bit and closer to, it was in focus. Ergo focus set at some arbitrary point not too far in front of you. The light refractions would be typical of gigs and not connected.
  6. Ross Hull

    Ross Hull Member

    So when I was taking pictures of subjects further away there is a chance they weren't even in the area that was in focus? I was using a wide aperture so would have had a shallow DOF. How do I text that the AF is working correctly?

  7. RogerMac

    RogerMac Well-Known Member

    It would help to know what camera you are using and as another Roger said some samples..If you are using a DSLR a lot of their lenses have a switch that allows you to switch between AF and manual focus on the lens itself, check that this is on AF. Rough checks on AF are easy to do by (A) pointing at the distance and taking an exposure the (B) doing the same fr near distance. If those work we could provide more detailed advice but we do need some help from you
  8. RovingMike

    RovingMike Crucifixion's a doddle...

    Yes exactly. That's what it sounds like. You were moving in and out of focus. Camera and lens info is key as roger says. Some have a ring on the front that you pull in and out, there is no selector. Olympus Pro lenses are like that, it is easy to knock them into MF.
  9. PeteRob

    PeteRob Well-Known Member

    You also need some minimum conditions to be met for auto-focus to work. Some flash guns have an auto-focus assist light for situations where the basic light levels are insufficient (the case when relying on flash). You can preset focus if you know roughly where the subject will be. Perhaps the easiest way, although it takes some getting used to, is to remove the focus option from the shutter release and assign it to another button. You can then focus independently of taking the picture.
  10. RovingMike

    RovingMike Crucifixion's a doddle...

    Good point. Some with older AF systems simply don't focus that often in low light situations.
  11. RovingMike

    RovingMike Crucifixion's a doddle...

    To OP: So what was the cause?

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