Discussion in 'Talking Pictures' started by TimF, Aug 1, 2011.
Discuss, as "they" used to say.
Bit on the heavy side Tim. I can remember when we used to base our exposure on wind strength and that was in the days of 5"x 4".
Surely, for all you members who shoot raw, getting the exposure wrong shouldn't be a problem.
As for the rest of us, camera meters are so good these days, and especially if you know how to compensate for difficult situations, why worry?
Did I get a whiff of a sort of posh extinction meter? I'm sure I've got one of those somewhere.
That latest sensor from Sony used in the Pentax k5, nikon D7000 and others... would it be effected in the same way, as its noise delivery is a bit different?
Always though they were for cissies, guessing is so much more fun.
You mean you don't take the 5x4 out now
Anyway, on topic at least... I've been wanting something like this for a while. My current issue is I don't have liveview on my DSLR and its DR is quite poor, so there isn't much scope in ETTR - most images use the full histogram anyway.
Does that then not imply that you *have* exposed as far right as you can, it's just that the dynamic range of the scene is too large?
As long as you're not clipping, and your histogram is hitting the right hand edge, then you have captured the maximum detail possible in that exposure. This technique only works for scenes that *don't* have the fully dynamic range of your sensor - in which case it's best to expose as high as possible without clipping, and then 'stretch' the exposure in post to bring back the shadows (but without the shadow noise)
Yes and no. Because so much of my data is in the shadow part of the histogram whilst it may occupy a greater proportion of the data in a linear measurement (say 1/3 of the full DR) the quality of data could be improved if I could get it further to the right (taking up let's say 1/6 of the DR but with more actual tonal values recorded in the raw file). That makes sense to me, but I am not an expert on the subject so I could have that wrong. I can see noise in shots at base ISO so the further away from the shadow values I can get the better.
Sounds to me (if I understand any of it) as if the only answer is something that delivers an HDR effect whether you want it or not.
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