So I have just ordered myself a B+W 10 stop ND filter. Yay!Anyways, whilst I intend to use it mainly for black and white work (film and digital), I am tempted to use it also for colour.
On my DSLR I suppose I can let the auto WB take care of any colour cast, but what about if I am shooting colour negs or reversals? Will I likely need a cool filter to bring it back to 'normal' daylight colour? Any tips gratefully received.
Where did you get it? I've been looknig for a 10stop for a while
Fen .......... My Website and Blog - My Flickr
... i believe that everyone else my age is an adult whereas i am merely in disguise
Margaret Atwood
Warehouse Express. It's a 52mm, so quite cheap. It'll fit four of my six lenses and can be bluetacked onto my Holga/Box Brownie.
Ah, screw-on.
I'm after a 105mm square filter
Fen .......... My Website and Blog - My Flickr
... i believe that everyone else my age is an adult whereas i am merely in disguise
Margaret Atwood
I am just curious - can you see anything through a 10 stop ND filter ? Takes a f1.4 lens to an effective f32 (might have miscounted)
I'll let you know tomorrow!I am just curious - can you see anything through a 10 stop ND filter ?
Don't know if its any help but Formatt do high density 100m filters.
Yes, but not a lot at all. Darker than very good espresso.I am just curious - can you see anything through a 10 stop ND filter ?
Indeed it does. The best part is getting shutter speeds down to 15, 20 or 30 seconds in bright daylight at f/22 and f/32. People disappear, water flows smoothly and skies blur into long streaky clouds.I am just curious - can you see anything through a 10 stop ND filter ? Takes a f1.4 lens to an effective f32 (might have miscounted)
Dont know about the ND10 but I used an ND1000, (2 in fact a screw in and a slot) and it played havoc with the colour. This was on the DSLR and I could never fix the cats in PS, however it can add interesting effects. I never finished the project so I only have the experimental test shots:
This was the screw in:
and this was the slot in:
which as you can see brough a major static/dust problem.
Im guessing you will have nowhere near that problem with only an ND10, but you can see the problem emerging as you get longer and longer shutter speeds.
Hmm maybe Ill go back and have another go at that it was an interesting project and Ive got a weeks holiday!
(Ctrl A > Ctrl C)
Cheers KenDon't know if its any help but Formatt do high density 100m filters.
Fen .......... My Website and Blog - My Flickr
... i believe that everyone else my age is an adult whereas i am merely in disguise
Margaret Atwood
There has to be a joke in there somewhere...I could never fix the cats in PS
Looks like you're getting more IR than visible light recorded, particularly with the slot-in, and so you can't ever get the colours right.
Yeah it looks more like cross processed stuff in the screw in and Im not that enamoured with it but I like the effect in the slot in. Its just a shame about the SODDING DUSTThere has to be a joke in there somewhere...I could never fix the cats in PS
Looks like you're getting more IR than visible light recorded, particularly with the slot-in, and so you can't ever get the colours right.
Never did manage to fix it
(Ctrl A > Ctrl C
Yeah. The B+W NDx1000 filter is dye-in-mass & has the high transparency in infra red typical of filters made by this method. A digital camera sensor is sensitive out to about 1100nm, or would be except for the red & infra red blocking built into the anti alias filter - unfortunately this blocking is not always 100% effective. Try a dichroic infra red blocking filter in addition to the NDx1000.Looks like you're getting more IR than visible light recorded
Alternatively Baader make a "light" solar film which is ND3.8 (x6400) and reflects or absorbs ultraviolet and infrared very effectively. It's not that readily available, most stockists only have the ND5 version, but there is a reliable outlet based in Germany who will sell A4 sized sheets of the stuff via eBay.
If you're not living on the edge, you're wasting space
Wow. Could you say that again in EnglishYeah. The B+W NDx1000 filter is dye-in-mass & has the high transparency in infra red typical of filters made by this method. A digital camera sensor is sensitive out to about 1100nm, or would be except for the red & infra red blocking built into the anti alias filter - unfortunately this blocking is not always 100% effective. Try a dichroic infra red blocking filter in addition to the NDx1000.Looks like you're getting more IR than visible light recorded
.
(Ctrl A > Ctrl C
This is one of the first images I took with the 10-stop filter:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/twoodwa...n/photostream/
The colours are ok but not great, though this is only down to my (crap) post-processing skills.
Interesting banding at the bottom of your picture. I took a number of pictures the other day with my newly arrived filter, and found it did the same in broad daylight. When the sun was behind a cloud there wasn't the same effect, so I am assuming that it is reflections of the strong light going through the filter, and bouncing off the lens back at the filter, and then onto the sensor.
The same happened to me, they are there but less noticeable when you have an image to see. Here are 2 test shots where trhe exposure was not enough to get an image but the reflection from the lens is clearly visible:Interesting banding at the bottom of your picture. I took a number of pictures the other day with my newly arrived filter, and found it did the same in broad daylight. When the sun was behind a cloud there wasn't the same effect, so I am assuming that it is reflections of the strong light going through the filter, and bouncing off the lens back at the filter, and then onto the sensor.
(Ctrl A > Ctrl C
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