What developer shall I try next?

[ricster]

I'm using Microphen at the moment and after my Pan-F incident I looked into some other Ilford developers such as Perceptol and ID11. Then I saw the price of T-Max. Then I got too many developers on my list so I thought I'd see what other people use.

I shoot generally on HP5+ & FP4+, I've just bought a lot of Neopan 400 and I will try some T-Max and Tri-X. I occassionally push anywhere up to 3200iso, I like grain as well contrast. I get through quite a few rolls of film so I don't mind buying a range of developers and trying them all: but what to try first??

[The Circle Of Confusion]

So many developers...so little time

I like Ilfosol-S with PanF.

Rollei High Speed gives good results with Tri-X, HP5, Neopan 1600 and Delta 3200. Ilfosol gives me grain the size of golfballs with Delta 3200!

I recently started using FX-39 particularly with FP4 and I like it.

[Wheelu]

I know that the pundits say that you should not derate a fast film, but I do like HP5 in Perceptol at 1:3 and rated at 320.

HP5 in DD-X at 1:4 and rated at 800 is good for dull days, adding a bit of sparkle. Probably best for medium format rather than 35mm, if you are adverse to grain.

Conversely FP4 in DD-X at 1:9 and rated at 125 is my choice for sunny summer days, as it deals well with contrasty situations and produces a lovely tonality. It is also economical in use!

[taxor]

That's quite a variety of films you're using, so it might be an idea to stick to just a couple of developers. You might spend ages trying to find the perfect combo otherwise. Microphen/DDX and ID11/D76 are a good starting point. I've yet to find a better combo than HP5 in ID11/D76 (1+1). The Microphen/DDX would take care of your pushed films. I get excellent results from HP5 at 800asa in Microphen.

[DaveS]

I've not developed film for a while now, must get back to it before it's too late, but.....to the point, I used a lot of home-brew PMK Pyro developer, I could probably find the formulation if you're interested.
Pan F EI 32, 6.30 with agitation every 30 sec, 3 min after soak, prints nicely on grade 2.5-3.
Pyro negs look deceptivly thin, but the green-yellow stain gives a lot of density, and a self-softeny of the grade in the highlights.

[taxor]

I never used Pyro (yet), but I was, and still am, a great fan of Dixactol and Exactol Lux - similar in some respects to Pyro and other staining devs. I only ever used them on HP5 and FP4 with really good results. I can only imagine the edge effects and acutance associated with these developers must render beautiful Pan F negs. There is/are formula(s)for Pyro on the Unblinking eye website.

[DaveS]

I tried DiXactol when it came out, but in the end preferred PMK, but that's just a personal preference, and I could well understand someone else preferring the other.
I got my original recipe from "The Darkroom Cookbook" itself borrowed from the local library. It has a vast range of recipes, including some classic one that Ansel Adams and Edward Weston used. whether they are still of valid use with todays materials is debatable.

Oh, BTW, in my job as a Science Technician I have my own well-equipped prep-room, and I also have a quite adequate Chemistry Degree, both of which help
Dave

[taxor]

I got my original recipe from "The Darkroom Cookbook" itself borrowed from the local library. It has a vast range of recipes, including some classic one that Ansel Adams and Edward Weston used. whether they are still of valid use with todays materials is debatable.

Yes, I have the same book. It's a good read. Never tried making my own Pyro, though I did try a pyrocatechin toning paper dev. (which, incidentally, wasn't very good). Regards, T.

[Malcolm_Stewart]

I still shoot a little B&W film, and still have a darkroom. I've got fed up with developers going off, so my latest purchase was Rodinal which is reputed to have a very long shelf life. Could be worth a try.

[zx9]

I still shoot a little B&W film, and still have a darkroom. I've got fed up with developers going off, so my latest purchase was Rodinal which is reputed to have a very long shelf life. Could be worth a try.

Ummm Rodinal, 100:1 or 200:1 with stand development = very nice tones

And is remains usable for years. Though the colour of some anti halation dyes mixed with spent Rodinal can be quite alarming on first sight.