newbie how to please :D

[Adesw]

Never done dark room work before. But for christmas im going to get some help buying a medium format camera, and I want to develop my own BW film. Ive watched a youtube demonstration, so i get the method in basic, but I need further info.

-Times
-Film type that is easy to start with and all the chemicals I need to develop the negative to a point where it can be scanned.(and where to get them)
-equipment I need and where to get it.
-Anything else I might need to know.

Its something I want to have a go at before it becomes impossible to get a hold of the gear. Thanks in advance

[SUNSHINE]

Hi Adesw,
check out this site for times and temperatures of various film developed in varous chemicals:~
http://www.digitaltruth.com/devchart.html
What will you need?
For chemicals, you'll need developer, fixer and wetting agent.
If you have no darkroom facilities, you'll need a changing bag, a developing tank or two, with a few spirals (a lot of them are designed to be multi~format filmwise ~ you can alter the size of them to accomodate various film sizes)
a thermometer to check the temperature of your chemicals
You'll also need somewhere dust~free to hang you films whilst they dry ~ could be the shower rail or similar.
You'll also need graduated measures for your chemicals, some bottles (usually dark, concertina type) to store the mixed chemicals in. ebay ~ alternative auction sites are available ~ is probably a good place to start if you don't mind second~hand equipment, or try your local camera clubs..
If you want to buy new goods, you could try jessops or your local camera shops.
Films ~ presuming you want to start with "Proper" mono film, HP5 or FP4 are good starting films, or Delta 100. Make sure you buy the correct film for your camera ~ 120 OR 220
I get my films from 7Day (google) and I think you can get chemicals from the likes of Silverprint (google) if your local camera shop or Jessops (on~line) don't stock what you need.
If you don't want to invest in a timer/stop clock, you'll also need a watch with a second~hand.

Good luck!
Jo

[Mojo_66]

The Ilford website has loads of information regarding film development, 120 FP4 is wonderful stuff, good luck and have fun!

[Wheelu]

The Ilford website has loads of information regarding film development, 120 FP4 is wonderful stuff, good luck and have fun!

Agree entirely, but just in case you get lost in navigating the Ilford site, this is what you want. Do exactly as it says and you can't go wrong.

I have lost count of the number of films I have developed over the years but I still get a tingle of excitement when I take the negatives out of the tank after processing.

You should be able to get most of the kit from Ebay, but I would recommend the digital kitchen timer made by Salter that is sold by Argos. A filter funnel and large plastic jug can be had from Wilkinsons, but you do need reasonably accurate measuring cylinders and a good thermometer.

For ease of use and as good results as anything around, go for Ilford DD-X liquid developer. Better economy can be had from powder developers, but I would start with a liquid.

[taxor]

I have lost count of the number of films I have developed over the years but I still get a tingle of excitement when I take the negatives out of the tank after processing.

I know what you mean. It's still an enjoyable experience when see those negs for the first time and you realise I did that!

[Freester]

Just to add to the above really. The Ilford website is an excellent resource. Follow the link above to the PDF on how to develop your first black and white film.

Bare minimum equipment is a Dev Tank, Changing Bag, Measuring Cylinder, accurate Thermometer and chemicals.

Loading the film on the dev tank spiral in the complete dark or a changing bag can be tricky. Ensure the spiral is completely dry and practice with a sacrificed film, practice cutting the leader off and loading the spiral - in the daylight first, then shut your eyes, then in the bag or darkroom before you go for it with your first film. If you have problems and all else fails put all the gear into your dev tank, take a breather and come back to it later.

There are 4 stages to getting your negs.

1) Develop
2) Stop the Develop
3) Fix
4) Rinse

Time and temperature are quite critical for the develop stage. The other 3 are not so critical. For consistent results always make sure whatever temps / times you use you stick with.

My first film was Ilford FP4+ ISO125. A nice film to get started on. It develops well with Ilford DD-X liquid or Ilford ID11 powder based dev. ID11 is cheaper and it really isn't that much hassle to mix up to a solution. Supposedly it also gives a nice result with FP4+ as well.

Good luck and don't forget to post your results!

[Rhys]

I'd also add to that the use of a wetting agent after the final rinse to stop streaks on the negs when drying. Some folk use washing up liquid though I always used proper wetting agent.

[PeteE]

I started developing my own films in 1951 after joining East Ham Grammar School Photographic Society. I blacked out the bathroom with an old blanket,put some red present wrapping paper round the ceiling bulb and see-sawed outdated Ferrania Ortho 120 film through some home-made developer in a metal dish my Mum used for making rice pudding and I used for frog spawn. I noticed a BIG improvement in 'fog levels' after I afforded my first real developing tank at 27/6d in 'old money'- a LOT as I got 2/6d a week pocket money!

[Wheelu]

I started developing my own films in 1951 after joining East Ham Grammar School Photographic Society. I noticed a BIG improvement in 'fog levels' after I afforded my first real developing tank at 27/6d in 'old money'- a LOT as I got 2/6d a week pocket money!

I started in a similar way, but at Jarrow Grammar (Jarra Gramma ) school some 10 years later. Do they have photo socs at schools today?

Your reference to the old money reminds me of my first part time job, working as a waiter and then barman at a working man's club - it did enable me to buy my first SLR.

I remember that a pint of Fed special cost 1/11, a pint of Fed ordinary 1/7, while a bottle of Newcastle Brown was two shillings and sevenpence happeny. There were no calculators in those days, and you would get an order for 2 pints of Special, 3 of Ordinary, one Half and Half, and a couple of bottles of broon. I could not contemplate doing the mental arithmetic now!

Sorry to have wandered so far off topic

[Adesw]

Thanks a bunch guys, should all be really useful.

Ive talked to my parents, and theyll give me 200 towards a mamiya rb setup, and the rest I'll have to pay for myself. So Im going to order that when my next pay cheque clears, then I will eventually order film and chemicals and gear. (Since I cant have it till christmas, there isnt a real rush. Santa clause is bringing it anywayz. )