Old Enlarger issues and questions

[Bone_Idle]

I've been given an Agfa Varioscope 35mm enlarger. However, it has certain problems and I was wondering how much it might affect performance.

Firstly, the when trying to remove the lens, I discovered that it was actually glued on, there are holes for some little screws, but they seem to be missing.I doubt I'll change lenses so is it ok to just re-glue it?

Secondly, there seems to be no safe light filter, it looks like there's gap between the light unit and lens to slide one it, does this seem right?

Thirdly, The bulb looks to be a 240v 50w screw in type, are these special bulbs?

Finally, I am planning on using Ilford Multi Grade paper (as I have bought some already), do I need a full set of filters for this or is it possible to work without them?

Edit: one final thing, do I need a dedicated safe light of would a red 'firelight' bulb work ok?

[taxor]

I'm not familiar with the Agfa Varioscope enlarger but I believe they were very good machines. In answer to your questions: Firstly, If you can find some replacement screws and re-attach the lens in this way, it'll much more preferable than re-gluing it. The lens plane should be perfectly parallel with the film plane; any bits of old glue could misalign the lens, giving issues with all over sharpness and illumination. Secondly, the gap that you mentioned (between the light unit and lens) sounds like a colour filter drawer, although it is equally suitable for multigrade filters. I can't help you with the bulb, I'm afraid. Finally, multigrade paper works without filtration, but will only print at approx grade 2. To exploit the benefits of multigrade, you really do need a set of filters. As for safelighting, I wouldn't use a red firelight bulb. It may appear red but might be a bit 'energetic' for darkroom use and likely to fog your paper. You should be able to pick up a proper darkroom safelight on fleabay for a very reasonable price. Good luck, T.

[mediaman]

SAFELIGHT FILTER...
Usually post mounted, below lens, and is "swung" into the lightpath when required. [Focusing..Masking frame positioning]
On an old enlarger, this will be red...
ENLARGER BULB ...
The lightsource has got to be fully defused, otherwise the bulb filament might possabaly be seen in the print..Also,being "Flashed Opal" the lightsource will give more even illumination across the print.
MULTIGRADE...
Filtration is required for all grades,...But will give the effect of a grade 2 only without.
Two types of Multigrade filters can be used... Above the negative in the filter drawer.[IF the enlarger has one]
And below the lens, in a special type of fitting.[you could take out the red swing filter out, and use this to carry the multigrade ones.
PLEASE NOTE...
Useing Multigrade paper, a red safelight is not good,...
You will need one designed for Multigrade.this is more Orange than red. Do a Google on Darkroom Supplies. hope some of this helps.

[Bone_Idle]

Thanks for the advice, It looks like the Safelight filter is missing but the bulb seems sound.

I'll look at getting a set of filters.

Great advice on the safe light, I'd have just bought a red one otherwise.

[AntSmith]

Safelights - I'm now using 3 Ilford 902s bought of fleabay, a bit pricey but amazingly bright

In my previous darkroom I used a pattison dome red safelight with ilford multigrade without problems.

No safelight is 100% safe - it's really a question of how long you can have the paper under them, how close they are to your working area and (thus) how bright they are... best thing is to run some trials...

[Malcolm_Stewart]

...
Thirdly, The bulb looks to be a 240v 50w screw in type, are these special bulbs? ...

My advice would be to look after your personal safety - particularly if you're using it in a darkroom where there's water or central heating pipes, or other earthed metalware. The big risk in a wet darkroom is that our body's built-in electrical resistance is mainly in the outer dry skin layer - if that gets damp we become very good conductors, and can easily take more than enough current to kill us.

Using a mains voltage lamp indicates that mains voltage electricity is supplied to the enlarger, and the wiring should be checked. Look at the lamp socket; is it plastic cased or metal? How is it mounted - on metal or plastic?
I'd advise ensuring that the wiring is double insulated (i.e. that there's an outer insulating layer surrounding the individually insulated conductors), and that none of this has cracked due to old age. If in doubt, seek competent help.

The frame of the enlarger really ought to be earthed (because this aspect can be tested with easily available instruments), if necessary by adding a new earth wire connected to the frame and taken to a proper earthing point. (If OTOH the enlarger was designed as a double insulated appliance that is much more difficult to test in a domestic environment.)

Over the years I've used both types - early ones giving me that tingle when touched (but in a non watered darkroom) and my current Vivitar 356 (in a well serviced darkroom) which isolates the mains inside a well insulated external transformer box.

Obviously I'd advise that any other electrical gear in the darkroom such as a wired enlarger timer should also be checked for electrical safety. Same goes for the safelight (and dryer/glazer) if it's within touching range.

Good luck.

[Bone_Idle]

Thanks for the advice. I have checked it out and it seems ok, the bulb holder is plastic and the wiring looks to have been replaced and is in good order. Everything seems to be correctly earthed etc.

I have pretty much everything I need (except confidence) to stat processing and printing my own films now, so will probably start once I have finished the film in my camera.