sacha
newbie
Reged: 20/10/2008
Posts: 9
|
|
just what the title says, I was out doors taking some pics of some lovely vivid green mossy rocks and some autumn leaves. The colours in real life where so vivid and clear but when I put them into lightroom to view them... the colour just wasn't there it was like there was too much white, I would appreciate any help
Sacha 
p.s using a nikon D40 with no filters and 18-55 lens
|
PhilW
Blue Peter Badge Winner
Reged: 14/03/2007
Posts: 1278
Loc: Near Wakefield, Yorkshire
|
|
We need more info to help.
Can we see an example? Were you shooting raw or jpg? If jpg what were the in camera settings?
-------------------- Phil Winterbourne
http://www.philwinterbourne.co.uk
|
benji
addict
Reged: 12/12/2006
Posts: 404
|
|
Is your shot over-exposed? Did you try and add saturation in post-processing? If you shoot RAW, try and adjust the white balance more to your liking maybe. As said above, without seeing the shot or having more details on your workflow/in-camera settings, it's difficult to help. Benji
-------------------- Benji BRISPN, CRISPS, SOTENVINEGA, CHIZENONIEN
|
Rhys
Sasquatch
Reged: 15/01/2004
Posts: 4049
Loc: York (home of the speedbump)
|
|
Quote:
Is your shot over-exposed?
I thought that as well. Can this be an Adobe-RGB versus an S-RGB thing?
-------------------- BSRIPN (Officially full of it..)
RGMP.co.uk (My Website.. getting there at last.)
Benchinistas.org.uk The home of Benchism
|
TimF
Taking it strictly
Reged: 30/07/2001
Posts: 18935
Loc: Herts/Beds border
|
|
Lightroom's native colour space is actually Pro Photo RGB, which has a wider gamut than even Adobe RGB (it can be changed in Preferences).
Without more information my best guess would be that the OP needs to do some adjustment of Levels, contrast or whatever to get the pictures looking how they wish. A raw file is like an unbaked cake.
-------------------- Tim BSRIPN
If I had all the money I've spent on drink, I'd spend it on drink
|
benji
addict
Reged: 12/12/2006
Posts: 404
|
|
Quote:
Lightroom's native colour space is actually Pro Photo RGB, which has a wider gamut than even Adobe RGB (it can be changed in Preferences).
Without more information my best guess would be that the OP needs to do some adjustment of Levels, contrast or whatever to get the pictures looking how they wish. A raw file is like an unbaked cake.
That's why tweaking your RAW file is always a good way of enhancing your image (just make sure you don't overcook it).
Benji
(I know...!!!)
-------------------- Benji BRISPN, CRISPS, SOTENVINEGA, CHIZENONIEN
|
DaveG40
addict
Reged: 21/07/2007
Posts: 476
|
|
Silly question, but hey it is me, what white balance setting did you have ?.
|
Monobod
'Phantom' of the forum!
Reged: 03/04/2003
Posts: 6867
Loc: Just West of Norwich, Norfolk
|
|
What ISO setting? You may have simply overexposed it.
-------------------- David.
-----------------------------------------------
Photos hosted by Flickr.
www.flickr.com/photos/monobod/
-----------------------------------------------
My sharpest lens is a tripod - Chris Palmer.
|
sacha
newbie
Reged: 20/10/2008
Posts: 9
|
|
ISO 200
|
sacha
newbie
Reged: 20/10/2008
Posts: 9
|
|
Here is an example of that washed out (white haze)look I'm getting
http://sacha83.deviantart.com/art/Forrest-road-103406432
would a UV or polarising filter help?
Sacha
Edited by sacha (13/11/2008 11:59)
|
sacha
newbie
Reged: 20/10/2008
Posts: 9
|
|
by the way the details are as follows
Model: NIKON D40 Shutter Speed: 1/160 second F Number: F/5.6 Focal Length: 55 mm ISO Speed: 200
|
Benchista
Which Tyler
Reged: 11/08/2000
Posts: 42177
Loc: Everywhere and nowhere, baby
|
|
Quote:
Here is an example of that washed out (white haze)look I'm getting
http://sacha83.deviantart.com/art/Forrest-road-103406432
would a UV or polarising filter help?
Sacha
No - if anything, a UV filter would make it worse. A decent lenshood would help, though.
Looks like you've got some veiling flare, which a lenshood adapted for the focal length in use would cure - although you might be better off with a French flag (a shading device on an arm that will prevent the sun from causing flare). Also, the contrast range of that shot is such that you're always going to have either/or burned out highlights (such as the bracken) and blocked-up shadows. Only way round that is with HDR or a similar process, as an ND grad won't work with a subject like that.
-------------------- Nick
www.nbrphoto.com
Light and Shade II - the new blog
|
sacha
newbie
Reged: 20/10/2008
Posts: 9
|
|
Thankyou so much that really helped
Sacha
|
Monobod
'Phantom' of the forum!
Reged: 03/04/2003
Posts: 6867
Loc: Just West of Norwich, Norfolk
|
|
Have you checked the histogram? A slight adjustment in levels using the mid slider might improve things.
-------------------- David.
-----------------------------------------------
Photos hosted by Flickr.
www.flickr.com/photos/monobod/
-----------------------------------------------
My sharpest lens is a tripod - Chris Palmer.
|
benji
addict
Reged: 12/12/2006
Posts: 404
|
|
Sacha,
Nick/Benchista is right. Next time, to achieve the result you are after, expose for the hightlight areas of your image, and let the shadows go black (no other way round). At least you'll retain saturation in the highlights, which is what you said you were trying to achieve.
(basically, your in-camera lightmetre has compensated for the shadow areas present in your image. Do a spot metering on the highlights only next time, it should help. In-camera contrast set to a minimum should also help in such midday-light conditions)
Benji
-------------------- Benji BRISPN, CRISPS, SOTENVINEGA, CHIZENONIEN
|
sacha
newbie
Reged: 20/10/2008
Posts: 9
|
|
Great advice, I'll head on down there today and try that out!
Thanks!
|