Rugby_Nut
member
Reged: 08/07/2008
Posts: 181
Loc: High Wycombe, Bucks
|
|
You buy a fancy looking camera and then...........people assume you're a pro and then........... you get asked to do the wedding photos for the wife's nephew! Just found out. Wedding this weekend! Civil wedding in a posh hotel up north - so cannot even recce the place!
The good news is that they know I've never done a wedding before and are ok if things go a little pear shaped. However on the basis that I am a bit of a perfectionist, some assistance from my friends on this forum would not go amiss.
OK, I've got an E520, standard twin lens kit, FL36 flash, tripod, and remote release cable. Hopefully the weather will be ok and a lot of the shots can be taken outside. It's the inside shots that I need some help with.
Assuming the flash should not be used during the ceremony, any recommendations on camera settings for indoor shots? Presumably the shutter speed has to be reasonable fast to avoid movement blur. On that basis, shutter priority mode, best exposure setting (spot, centre'ish, whole frame? ISO setting? You know what I mean anyway.
Also any assistance on FL36 settings where flash can also be used would be appreciated. I've only recently got the thing and testing has so far been limited.
I've got several batteries and compactflash cards, so should not be a problem there. No spare body though 
--------------------
Chris
|
Bone_Idle
Mr Maybe
Reged: 28/07/2006
Posts: 1390
Loc: Bradford
|
|
I'd say organisation is the key. Talk to the couple and see what shots they have in mind. also make a list of the shots you want e.g. Bride and Groom + parents, B&G + Bridesmaids, B&G+ extended families etc... This will be one less thing to try and remember on the day.
I'd be tempted to shoot in JPEG and RAW, it's easier to recover wrong exposures and incorrect white balance, but if things look good you can still just use the jpeg to save time.
--------------------
Thanks
Nick
|
Rugby_Nut
member
Reged: 08/07/2008
Posts: 181
Loc: High Wycombe, Bucks
|
|
Quote:
I'd say organisation is the key. Talk to the couple and see what shots they have in mind. also make a list of the shots you want e.g. Bride and Groom + parents, B&G + Bridesmaids, B&G+ extended families etc... This will be one less thing to try and remember on the day.
I'd be tempted to shoot in JPEG and RAW, it's easier to recover wrong exposures and incorrect white balance, but if things look good you can still just use the jpeg to save time.
Thanks Nick. I already shoot in RAW + JPEG and spookily enough have already asked the happy couple what sort of shots they're looking for. My main concern is low light shooting because the smaller of the kit lens's (14-42) will only go to f4'ish. I'm wondering if that will be enough. I'm really tempted (or sufficiently panicked!) to order the 50mm f2 lens in time for the weekend. I didn't really want to spend that sort of money yet but...............
--------------------
Chris
|
Bone_Idle
Mr Maybe
Reged: 28/07/2006
Posts: 1390
Loc: Bradford
|
|
When I did a weddign recently (albeit only shooting informal portraits and candids) I ended up using my Sigma 30mm f/1.4 all the time. Even in doors after dark, with just tungsten lighting I din't go over ISO400!
I'm not that good, but here's an example at 1/25th sec ISO 400 at f/1.6 (for some reason)
--------------------
Thanks
Nick
Edited by Bone_Idle (22/09/2008 18:06)
|
Rugby_Nut
member
Reged: 08/07/2008
Posts: 181
Loc: High Wycombe, Bucks
|
|
Quote:
When I did a weddign recently (albeit only shooting informal portraits and candids) I ended up using my Sigma 30mm f/1.4 all the time. Even in doors after dark, with just tungsten lighting I din't go over ISO400!
I'm not that good, but here's an example at 1/25th sec ISO 400 at f/1.6 (for some reason)
Looks very good to me Nick. Both lenses are in stock at Warehouse Express. The Sigma is a bit cheaper and goes down to f1.4 as well. The oly 50mm can also be used for macro though. Which one? Anyone?????
--------------------
Chris
|
Photocracy
The Great Pretender
Reged: 18/11/2006
Posts: 625
Loc: Sunny South Coast
|
|
Hi Chris,
The 50mm F2 Oly lens is superb and you won't regret buying it if you do. It makes a cracking portrait lens and the clarity and sharpness of the images produced with it are excellent.
Other tips; watch your white balance when shooting with no flash indoors and don't forget to adjust it again when you go outside. Auto white balance will be safe outdoors, but possibly not indoors.
If you use flash, make sure you are familiar with its range. Try bouncing off the ceiling if the subject is close enough. Practise this at home beforehand. Don't be afraid to use flash where you can, but familiarise yourself with its limitations. It can be useful outside too for compensating for dull weather (set to FP TTL Auto). And if the light on your FL36 starts flashing and it no longer works properly, it simply means you need new batteries (this one had me foxed completely the first time it happened)!
Think carefully before using spot metering. You can easily end up with unrecoverable blown highlights. Multi metering is often best and a detail richer, albeit darker, image can soon be adjusted in PS. Whereas blown highlights are blown for good!
Rehearse all your likley set-ups so you can achieve them quickly. People have no patience whatsoever if you cannot perform instantly!
Good luck!
--------------------
Rob
|
Benchmark
Is it safe?
Reged: 12/07/2005
Posts: 3024
Loc: Sedgefield, Co Durham
|
|
Quote:
Hi Chris,
The 50mm F2 Oly lens is superb and you won't regret buying it if you do. It makes a cracking portrait lens and the clarity and sharpness of the images produced with it are excellent.
Other tips; watch your white balance when shooting with no flash indoors and don't forget to adjust it again when you go outside. Auto white balance will be safe outdoors, but possibly not indoors.
The 50 mm f2.0 is an excellent lens, but being a short telephoto it is also has a very narrow angle of view, so you may end up not using it very often apart from head and should portraits from a distance. (Try your kit lens at 50 mm to see what I mean).
For that sort of money, and given your immediate needs you would probably be better off buying the 14 ~ 54 f2.8 lens.
Also, if you are shooting RAW, I would just stick to using Auto White Balance as you can always adjust it in PS when processing.
Good luck anyhow!
Edit: The Sigma 30 mm f1.4 looks like another viable option, but I have heard (possibly incorrectly) that they don't always work (focus) well with Olympus cameras.
--------------------
Nigel CRIPN and Bar
Beware of the Dark Slide
Edited by Benchmark (23/09/2008 12:57)
|
Rugby_Nut
member
Reged: 08/07/2008
Posts: 181
Loc: High Wycombe, Bucks
|
|
Quote:
Quote:
Hi Chris,
The 50mm F2 Oly lens is superb and you won't regret buying it if you do. It makes a cracking portrait lens and the clarity and sharpness of the images produced with it are excellent.
Other tips; watch your white balance when shooting with no flash indoors and don't forget to adjust it again when you go outside. Auto white balance will be safe outdoors, but possibly not indoors.
The 50 mm f2.0 is an excellent lens, but being a short telephoto it is also has a very narrow angle of view, so you may end up not using it very often apart from head and should portraits from a distance. (Try your kit lens at 50 mm to see what I mean).
For that sort of money, and given your immediate needs you would probably be better off buying the 14 ~ 54 f2.8 lens.
Also, if you are shooting RAW, I would just stick to using Auto White Balance as you can always adjust it in PS when processing.
Good luck anyhow!
Edit: The Sigma 30 mm f1.4 looks like another viable option, but I have heard (possibly incorrectly) that they don't always work (focus) well with Olympus cameras.
That was/is my main worry about the 50mm lens. I have no doubt it is a very good bit of kit but was worried that being effectively 100mm meant that I would have to move too far away to get people in.
I discounted the 14-54mm quite early. I didn't think having f2.8 over my existing 14-42mm's f4 was worth the money. I think I'd look at saving up for the 12-60SWD should I want to go in that direction.
I did manage today to quickly test both the 50mm f2 and the Sigma 30mm f1.4. And indeed the 50mm is just a little too long. So I've gone for the Sigma. I think the AF problems came with John Fosters review on biofos where his initial tests would indicate a problem. However, he discovered that his first tests where set up too close. When he moved a couple of inches further back, all was fine. I've tried a few quick test shots at f1.4 and f2 and the results look very good. I'll try some more shortly. Certainly Nick rates it, which is a good sign as well.
--------------------
Chris
|
Rugby_Nut
member
Reged: 08/07/2008
Posts: 181
Loc: High Wycombe, Bucks
|
|
Quote:
If you use flash, make sure you are familiar with its range. Try bouncing off the ceiling if the subject is close enough. Practise this at home beforehand. Don't be afraid to use flash where you can, but familiarise yourself with its limitations. It can be useful outside too for compensating for dull weather (set to FP TTL Auto). And if the light on your FL36 starts flashing and it no longer works properly, it simply means you need new batteries (this one had me foxed completely the first time it happened)!
Thanks Rob. Do you use the diffuser much? For the sake of keeping it simple, should I set the flash to FP TTL Auto all the time, i.e. indoors and out?
Tried the 50mm f2 today and liked it very much. Just a tad too long for what I think I'll need it for. Went for the Sigma 30mm instead. I'll let you know how I get on with it.
--------------------
Chris
|
zuiko
Olympian...
Reged: 19/06/2006
Posts: 438
Loc: Norfolk.
|
|
I would research the hotel on internet, get some idea of layout and suitable backdrops. A list is handy but even more useful is an usher who knows everyone. Delegate. I found 14-54 for interior shots best and zoom for outside images isolating guests for impromp portraits. Get some images mothers/parents with children if there are any. Smile, try and build rapport with group. Enjoy!
Some advice from another site on flash settings. I have used the settings on my E1 FL50 and it works just fine.
FL36/50
David
Edited by zuiko (23/09/2008 22:24)
|
Rugby_Nut
member
Reged: 08/07/2008
Posts: 181
Loc: High Wycombe, Bucks
|
|
Thanks David.
Had a quick look at the flash settings web page and it appears very interesting. Whether I'm going to have time to study it all before the weekend is another matter entirely 
--------------------
Chris
|
Photocracy
The Great Pretender
Reged: 18/11/2006
Posts: 625
Loc: Sunny South Coast
|
|
Quote:
Thanks Rob. Do you use the diffuser much? For the sake of keeping it simple, should I set the flash to FP TTL Auto all the time, i.e. indoors and out?
If you mean the flip out diffuser built into the FL36, this is only for spreading the flash for use with the 8mm fisheye. I do use an elastic fit diffuser sometimes, but I find it limits the range so much, it really is only effective for close up shots.
No, don't use FP TTL Auto all the time. Only outside in brighter light. Use it to brighten up dull weather or to take the harsh shadows out of faces if it is bright and sunny. If you use FP TTL Auto inside where it is darker, you can get strange ghostly shadows and transparent bodies!
So, inside use TTL Auto; outside use FP TTL Auto if you decide flash is needed. Marshal a family volunteer to experiment at home both inside and outdoors. The most important thing where the pics are critical (and I have never done a wedding myself) is to make sure you are not experimenting on the day. Limit yourself to techniques you know will work in a given situation.
--------------------
Rob
|
Rugby_Nut
member
Reged: 08/07/2008
Posts: 181
Loc: High Wycombe, Bucks
|
|
Quote:
Quote:
Thanks Rob. Do you use the diffuser much? For the sake of keeping it simple, should I set the flash to FP TTL Auto all the time, i.e. indoors and out?
If you mean the flip out diffuser built into the FL36, this is only for spreading the flash for use with the 8mm fisheye. I do use an elastic fit diffuser sometimes, but I find it limits the range so much, it really is only effective for close up shots.
No, don't use FP TTL Auto all the time. Only outside in brighter light. Use it to brighten up dull weather or to take the harsh shadows out of faces if it is bright and sunny. If you use FP TTL Auto inside where it is darker, you can get strange ghostly shadows and transparent bodies!
So, inside use TTL Auto; outside use FP TTL Auto if you decide flash is needed. Marshal a family volunteer to experiment at home both inside and outdoors. The most important thing where the pics are critical (and I have never done a wedding myself) is to make sure you are not experimenting on the day. Limit yourself to techniques you know will work in a given situation.
Thanks Rob. Got it!!! I've read the web page referred to by David and also Wrotniaks review and I understand. Thanks for your help mate.
Taken several test shots with the Sigma 30mm f1.4 and the results look very good. Some of the first few seemed a little out of focus which confused me a tad. But I think I was in zoom lens mode and was accidentally moving the manual focus ring. Tripod tests look good. Pics look a little soft at f1.4 but I think thats to be expected. Proof of the pudding will be during the weekend
On the way up north on Saturday I'm stopping in Oxfordshire to take some shots of my brother racing an Aston Martin. I used to do a lot of motorbike racing in my younger days when you manually focussed on a part of the track and then panned and fired as close to that spot as possible. Guess I'll be giving continuous shooting and C-AF a go! Talk about a mixed weekend 
--------------------
Chris
|
Photocracy
The Great Pretender
Reged: 18/11/2006
Posts: 625
Loc: Sunny South Coast
|
|
Quote:
Thanks Rob. Got it!!! I've read the web page referred to by David and also Wrotniaks review and I understand. Thanks for your help mate.
Taken several test shots with the Sigma 30mm f1.4 and the results look very good. Some of the first few seemed a little out of focus which confused me a tad. But I think I was in zoom lens mode and was accidentally moving the manual focus ring. Tripod tests look good. Pics look a little soft at f1.4 but I think thats to be expected. Proof of the pudding will be during the weekend
On the way up north on Saturday I'm stopping in Oxfordshire to take some shots of my brother racing an Aston Martin. I used to do a lot of motorbike racing in my younger days when you manually focussed on a part of the track and then panned and fired as close to that spot as possible. Guess I'll be giving continuous shooting and C-AF a go! Talk about a mixed weekend
Yes, it takes a little getting used to working with primes again. Don't you think it feels more like real photography as you have to make proper decisions about framing? With zooms, it's easy to get seduced by detail and overlook the framing. It sounds like the Sigma 30mm f1.4 is going to be a great (and very fast) lens.
Your brother is a lucky man racing an Aston Martin! Hope you get some good shots. Traditional wisdom for this kind of photography dictates a shutter speed just slow enough to show some blur in the wheels and background. But I have recently taken some shots at much faster speeds (1/650th or more) to completely freeze everything as sharp as possible. I then use the blurr tool in PS to add motion to the wheels and background. The effect is quite amazing if done carefully and better than the traditional method. I know some would not approve, but it's very seductive! Perhaps try both methods. Good luck!
--------------------
Rob
|
Rugby_Nut
member
Reged: 08/07/2008
Posts: 181
Loc: High Wycombe, Bucks
|
|
Blimey Rob - do you work shifts or something? Yes, your right about primes, it's an odd feeling again. Do you know, I'm seriously thinking about buying a 14-54 f2.8 tomorrow to complement the Sigma. I'd made up my mind that the 12-60 was the way forward but the older lens is half the price and from what I can gather is not that much different. I'll be bloody glad when this next weekend is over 
--------------------
Chris
|
Photocracy
The Great Pretender
Reged: 18/11/2006
Posts: 625
Loc: Sunny South Coast
|
|
No, not shifts. Just a night owl I suppose. Everything usually works better late after the marauding hordes have retired for the night! 
--------------------
Rob
|
Rugby_Nut
member
Reged: 08/07/2008
Posts: 181
Loc: High Wycombe, Bucks
|
|
Quote:
No, not shifts. Just a night owl I suppose. Everything usually works better late after the marauding hordes have retired for the night!
Ah, a man with a family! Just me and the wife now - mind you it can get dreadfully quiet - YES
--------------------
Chris
|
Rugby_Nut
member
Reged: 08/07/2008
Posts: 181
Loc: High Wycombe, Bucks
|
|
For those that may be interested.....
The very good news first - the wedding shoot went very well - got some very good shots and I am very hopeful that the happy couple will be very pleased with the results.
In the end, I raided the piggy bank big time and on Friday last purchased the 12-60SWD lens from srsmicrosystems in Watford. Good bunch of people there - I would recommend them to anyone - and - the price was cheaper than anyone else! What a lens my friends! Used it pretty much exclusively on my E-520 on the day and I am more than impressed. Autofocus was spot on and in 500 or so photos, only a couple were iffy (probably my fault!!) In the evening I added the FL36 flash and again was very impressed.
I decided to keep the camera settings simple (ISO auto, WB auto) and stayed an A mode throughout. The flash was set to TTL Auto when used. I shot RAW plus Jpeg and to be fair the jpegs are outstanding. It was a high contrast day - the ceremony was held outside in a gazebo that threw shadows everywhere - but the jpegs straight from the camera are nearly always spot on.
Thanks to all of you that offered help and guidance, it was all very useful on the day.
The more you do photograghy, the more you understand. This weekend I learned that wedding photography is really all about organisation (as a previous poster quite rightly said). It is also about confidence in your equipment. In that respect, the E-520, the 12-60SWD, and the FL36 flash behaved superbly. As you've probably guessed, I'm a mighty relieved man
--------------------
Chris
|
Photocracy
The Great Pretender
Reged: 18/11/2006
Posts: 625
Loc: Sunny South Coast
|
|
Glad it went well and interesting and helpful to know what worked. I think you've gained some really useful experience and, just as importantly, confidence in your gear. Thanks for sharing. The new lens sounds delightful and I'm most envious!
--------------------
Rob
|
Previous
Index
Next
Threaded
Edit
Reply
Quote
