| saffron |
| (newbie) |
| 08/03/2008 11:59 |
Module 2 - Grey Card Dilemma
|
Having taken so long over Mod 1 I was keen to get on with getting Mod 2 ready whilst waiting for Mod 1 comments. I have run the grey card test a dozen or so times over last two days (yesterday in shade, today overcast) with similar results. The "correct" (i.e at 1/60 sec) exposure, instead of measuring 128/128/128, repeatedly came out at around 158 or so. I tried different ISO and White Balance settings with similar results. I therefore tried building in exposure compensation of -1/3 and -2/3 stop and found I was able to get readings in the 128 range for the 1/60 sec exposure. I am using a new Nikon D300 and had thought my pics were a little overexposed occasionally so I do not know whether it is my ineptitude or a feature of the camera settings in certain circumstances. I am now concerned with what to submit for Mod 2 . Any comments anyone or any view Garry?
| Garry McNamara |
| (Snr Tutor/Bongo Banjo) |
| 08/03/2008 13:32 |
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Re: Module 2 - Grey Card Dilemma
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Hi, first make sure the grey card is in even light - with no shadows or highlights or overly reflecting areas. Make sure you are completely filling the frame with the grey card - and I mean completely - anything else can really mess this set up.
Set the camera to manual mode, select 1/60sec and using the meter display adjust the aperture until the indicator indicates a correct exposure.
Before you do that make sure that any exposure compensation is cancelled - I had a module two last week where the student was unaware they had the exposure compensation set to plus 1 stop, so that is one place to look first if you are getting over exposed pictures. Seeing as how you are adjusting that at times to get a correct exposure it seems unlikely (but do make sure you have cancelled it after using it.)
If they card is measuring the same 158 in all channels then it's not a white balance problem. The ISO shouldn't have any effect on whether or not the camera gives a correct exposure - it will only change the shutter or aperture setting to suit the sensitivity selected.
If you are doing everything above and your card is still coming out consistently too light with no other camera control set to over expose then the camera is at fault and you should get Nikon to look at its calibration.
I Hope somewhere in there is a solution.
| saffron |
| (newbie) |
| 08/03/2008 13:57 |
Re: Module 2 - Grey Card Dilemma
|
Garry,
Many thanks. I am completely filling the grey card so your comment about calibration of the camera may be right. Before I went outdoors to do the test properly I tried it indoors in natural but rather poor light for practice, and to get a correct exposure had to shove the ISO up to its limit. Strangely, readings on that one occasion were within 128 range. Is it acceptable to submit Module 2 with an adjustment to underexpose slightly as I have done to get the correct readings pending any corrections or otherwise Nikon may or may not do? I notice from a Nikon discussion site several people commented about possible slight overexposure with this camera. It is a manageable "problem" so I am not sure whether it is worthwhile taking it up with Nikon- everything else is so great.
| Garry McNamara |
| (Snr Tutor/Bongo Banjo) |
| 08/03/2008 14:14 |
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Re: Module 2 - Grey Card Dilemma
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If you explain that in your self assesment you certainly won't lose any marks as it demonstrates that you are completing the task very thouroughly indeed.
Yes indoors you would have to increase the ISO speed unless you have a fast (f1.4-f2.8 lens). Nothing wrong there but as I said a camera should give a correct exposure regardless of the ISO setting.
Personally I wouldn't be happy with a camera that routinely over exposes - any camera repair company could tell you if the camera's metering system is working correctly as will Nikon. You certainly shouldn't have to use exposure compensation to acheive a correct exposure to a grey card. My 50 year old Weston meter will acheive this so a new camera should! I'd get it checked out.
| saffron |
| (newbie) |
| 08/03/2008 16:17 |
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Re: Module 2 - Grey Card Dilemma
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Garry,
Many thanks. Your advice is very much appreciated and will be acted upon.
Peter W
| ColinL |
| (newbie) |
| 22/03/2008 13:54 |
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Re: Module 2 - Grey Card Dilemma
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I've also got a query regarding Module 2.
Having sorted the first part with the grey card, I'm a little confused with what is required for Part 2.
A. "An image with the exposure setting biased towards achieving maximum detail in the shadow areas" Am I correct in taking this to mean "maximum detail in the shadow areas without 'burning out' the highlights"? Or just maximum detail full stop?
And similarly for B. does this mean " maximum detail in highlight areas without 'blocking out' the shadow areas" or maximum detail full stop?
Any thoughts gratefully received. I can porduce images for either interpretation, but don't want to lose marks by not interpreting the question correctly.
ColinL
| apdlc |
| (newbie) |
| 22/03/2008 14:22 |
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Re: Module 2 - Grey Card Dilemma
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Rightly or wrongly I have biased the exposure for maximum detail in the shadow areas at the cost of the highlights, meaning some are burnt out. the opposite was applied to the highlight detail, maximising to the point where some of the shadow detail is lost . Im not sure if this is correct, but I will soon find out I am sure.
regards
Andy
| ColinL |
| (newbie) |
| 22/03/2008 23:34 |
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Re: Module 2 - Grey Card Dilemma
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Thanks Andy, anyone else out there got an opinion?
ColinL
| saffron |
| (newbie) |
| 23/03/2008 10:36 |
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Re: Module 2 - Grey Card Dilemma
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I am in the process of doing this and would agree with Andy's assessment of the requirement. Certainly that is how I read it. If exposing for maximum detail in the shadow areas, I expect it is reasonable to expect to lose some detail in the the highlight areas and vice versa although how much may depend on the range.
Peter
| Garry McNamara |
| (Snr Tutor/Bongo Banjo) |
| 23/03/2008 12:46 |
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Re: Module 2 - Grey Card Dilemma
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Let's see. You should by this point know how much over and over exposure your sensor can tolerate and with that information you can make two exposures to a scene while hopefully still getting a decent looking image without blown highlights or gross under exposure.
Obviously if you expose a black subject to appear grey you will get good detail in the darkest areas and if you expose to make your brightest highlight grey you will have lenty of detail in that. But that’s not the goal as you’ll have a poor quality picture either way.
The idea then is the subtly distribute the tones so that you biased the result towards shadows or highlights without too much compromise at the other end. In ‘the old days' we might bracket by half a stop to ensure a transparency that had the bias we wanted without any of the three shots actually being ‘wrong’ or useless - better to have three usable shots than one correct and two useless.
It's quite a subtle distinction but you should be able to assess which is which and why one is best and for what reason – the real point of the exercise.
A scene with snow might work!
| Angela Nicholson |
| (AP Technical Editor) |
| 26/03/2008 13:48 |
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Re: Module 2 - Grey Card Dilemma
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Quote:
Having taken so long over Mod 1 I was keen to get on with getting Mod 2 ready whilst waiting for Mod 1 comments. I have run the grey card test a dozen or so times over last two days (yesterday in shade, today overcast) with similar results. The "correct" (i.e at 1/60 sec) exposure, instead of measuring 128/128/128, repeatedly came out at around 158 or so. I tried different ISO and White Balance settings with similar results. I therefore tried building in exposure compensation of -1/3 and -2/3 stop and found I was able to get readings in the 128 range for the 1/60 sec exposure. I am using a new Nikon D300 and had thought my pics were a little overexposed occasionally so I do not know whether it is my ineptitude or a feature of the camera settings in certain circumstances. I am now concerned with what to submit for Mod 2 . Any comments anyone or any view Garry?
We have found that manufacturers regularly calibrate their cameras so that a mid tone is recorded with a brightness value of something other than 128. It doesn't mean your camera is faulty, it is how it is set-up. Making mid tones darker than they should be by underexposure, for example, will help retain highlight detail.
Angela
| saffron |
| (newbie) |
| 26/03/2008 16:47 |
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Re: Module 2 - Grey Card Dilemma
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Angela,
Many thanks. That is a much clearer answer than I got from Nikon, bless them.
Peter
| Heart_Shaped_Bruises |
| (newbie) |
| 16/04/2008 17:44 |
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Re: Module 2 - Grey Card Dilemma
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Hi all,
Im having a bit of a nightmare with module 2!
After re-taking the grey card images several times, I finally got them just right and the "correct exposure" image finally measures at around 128/128/128 in each channel of the info palette. However, in the questions about finding the last images with highlight and with shadow detail, I have measured these with the info palette, and have found both for R10/G10/B10 and for R245/G245/B245 but these images do not actually have much, if any, detail in them. Im not sure if this would be acceptable or not, so I could use a bit of help!
Also, the questions after that, about "stops", I am not 100% sure on what is meant by "stops"...maybe Im having a stupid moment and its something obvious but Id appreciate it a lot if somebody could point me in the right direction.
Many Thanks,
Tina
| Garry McNamara |
| (Snr Tutor/Bongo Banjo) |
| 17/04/2008 08:34 |
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Re: Module 2 - Grey Card Dilemma
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Hiya, the fact that they are 10 and 245 confirms there is something there - if you were to print them for instance the 245 should show the faintest of tones against pure white paper. You might want to check your monitor to confirm that the brightness and contrast are not set too high - here's an example of 245 and pure white- you should be able to see a clear difference -
As for stops - it's a bit of an antiquated term but is still used all the time. A whole 'stop' refers to a doubling or halving of exposure - depending on which direction you make the adjustment. Most cameras also offer you the option to adjust exposure by a third and a half of a stop. It can be achieved with the shutter or the aperture control.
Garry
| Heart_Shaped_Bruises |
| (newbie) |
| 17/04/2008 11:07 |
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Re: Module 2 - Grey Card Dilemma
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Hi Gary.
Thanks for the advice, I see what you mean now about there being slight detail. However, the last image with shadow detail I have is the image set at a shutter speed of 1/1000 second. I would have thought this would have no detail whatsoever as the image just appears black.
With regards to the stops, I am still a little confused. The way I am reading it, is it for example, if I set the shutter speed to 1/60 and then adjust this by 2 stops, the new shutter speed would be 1/100??
Thanks
| saffron |
| (newbie) |
| 17/04/2008 14:11 |
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Re: Module 2 - Grey Card Dilemma
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Quote:
Hi Gary.
Thanks for the advice, I see what you mean now about there being slight detail. However, the last image with shadow detail I have is the image set at a shutter speed of 1/1000 second. I would have thought this would have no detail whatsoever as the image just appears black.
With regards to the stops, I am still a little confused. The way I am reading it, is it for example, if I set the shutter speed to 1/60 and then adjust this by 2 stops, the new shutter speed would be 1/100??
Thanks
Hi,
On page 17 of the Module Book for Part 1 you are given a series of shuttter speeds either side of 1/60th sec. Each change is one stop up or down i.e 1/15th second is 2 stops slower and 1/250 is 2 stops faster shutter speed.
Hope this helps.
Found this a very interesting and informative exercise and, after the frustration mentioned at the beginning of this thread, a great deal of fun. Good luck.
Peter
| Garry McNamara |
| (Snr Tutor/Bongo Banjo) |
| 17/04/2008 19:01 |
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Re: Module 2 - Grey Card Dilemma
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Hi, here's another of those silly pictures that proves even 10 is quite different from 0 -
As for the stops business - if you double 1/60 you get 1/30 and if you halve it you get 1/120 (but to keep things neat they round it up to 1/125 so the next one can be 1/250sec.) What's important to understand is these figures are fractions - put a 1 and a slash in front of the number and it all starts to make sense - eventually (says he with not even a CSE in maths!)
Apertures are a little less obvious but the normal sequence (halfing the amount of light entering the lens each time in this sequence)is 1.4,2,2.8,4,5.6,8,11,16,22, anything appearing between those figures is a third or a half of a whole stop,
Garry
| Heart_Shaped_Bruises |
| (newbie) |
| 18/04/2008 18:44 |
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Re: Module 2 - Grey Card Dilemma
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Hi Peter,
Thanks a lot for pointing that out, I had a feeling that was what it was but I wasnt 100%.
Thanks for putting me straight, much appreciated!
Tina
| Heart_Shaped_Bruises |
| (newbie) |
| 18/04/2008 18:46 |
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Re: Module 2 - Grey Card Dilemma
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Hi Gary,
Thanks again for taking the time to explain. As I said to Peter, I had a feeling that was the way it worked, but I wasnt 100%, so thanks for pointing me in the right direction! The whole module seems a lot easier now, so phew!
Many thanks,
Tina
| hil26 |
| (journeyman) |
| 28/04/2008 16:53 |
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Re: Module 2 - Grey Card Dilemma
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Quote:
Hi, here's another of those silly pictures that proves even 10 is quite different from 0 -
Garry
Hmmm, its either my eyes or my monitor, as I can see no difference in black rectangle - I know you are saying there is a difference - so should see a line bewteen two rectangles, just not there for me.
I can however see the difference in the earlier white image.
I have calibrated my monitor using both Syder and agaion with the graphic card software (nvideo) and can see a difference at the black end using both.
| hil26 |
| (journeyman) |
| 01/05/2008 19:26 |
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Re: Module 2 - Grey Card Dilemma
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Have now tried 3 times to do this, first two times, the info at 1/60s was way out - then realised that I was shooting raw files and the raw editor was adjusting - aaggghhhhhh - note self - put brain in gear.
The third set taken as jpegs came a lot closer to the expected results except the true black which I assume will be the image taken at 1/1000s, I am getting readings that show some detail is apparent that is 7 7 7 top right hand corner, 8 8 8 in the middle and 6 6 4 bottom left.
Am I right in assuming that these should be 0 0 0 across the image - i.e true black. If so I must be getting some trace light onto the card that I was not aware of.
| Garry McNamara |
| (Snr Tutor/Bongo Banjo) |
| 02/05/2008 12:22 |
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Re: Module 2 - Grey Card Dilemma
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Hi, even using Raw format the files shouldn't be 'adjusted' to make significant changes to the exposure that you made. The whole point of Raw is that you are in charge.
With the correct prevailing light levels you should be able to get somewhere near a good mid-tone reproduced from a grey card while using a 1/60sec exposure and an appropriate aperture. If the camera is correctly adjusted it should, a far as is possible, reproduce the tones as they appear in a scene, in this case a grey card, correctly - otherwise there is not a lot of point to an exposure meter!
If the camera gives a correct exposure at 1/60sec by the time you are shooting at 1/1000sec the grey card will be four stops under exposed but there will, as you have found, still be residual exposure and some noise etc - that accounts for the figures you are getting. Unless you are a scientist involved in camera development I wouldn't fret about that.
| hil26 |
| (journeyman) |
| 02/05/2008 14:02 |
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Re: Module 2 - Grey Card Dilemma
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Thanks Gary
am going to repeat as although results were nearer to expected a few were a little off in the "correct exposure" that is the figures in the blue channel were lower than the red and green
I have 131 132 and 116 at 1/60s, these changed
at middle to 131 130 110
at lower left to 125 124 and 103
which makes me believe that the light across the card was not uniform.
| FatherPie |
| (journeyman) |
| 02/05/2008 14:09 |
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Re: Module 2 - Grey Card Dilemma
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Quote:
Have now tried 3 times to do this...
Like you I have now carried out the test multiple times (4 if I'm honest). My experience is similar to yours with slightly different readings at different points of the picture. I have four different sets of results but in none of the tests has the "correct" exposure produced a reading of 128 (plus or minus 15). I have found through changing the setting on the camera in 1/3rd of a stop increments the nearest I can get to 128 is at an exposure between 1/3rd and 2/3rd over the metered reading.
Am I being completely clueless or does this ring true for some others?
Cheers
| FatherPie |
| (journeyman) |
| 02/05/2008 14:46 |
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Re: Module 2 - Grey Card Dilemma
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Quote:
... that is the figures in the blue channel were lower than the red and green
Hi, my results are also lower in the blue channel whilst red and green very close to each other. Looking at the many shots I've taken today the blue is on average 8 lower than red or green. The values for red and green were invariably the same or within +/-1.
I have just taken 18 frames at 1/60th in under a minute and 12 were exactly the same reading (102/102/94) and all 18 were within 1 or 2 of these values.
Once again however (see previous post) an exposure at 1/40th, 2/3rd of a stop over the "correct" reading, produced closest results (134/134/124).
Goodness knows what the neighbours think as I run in and out of the house with camera and tripod to take another set of pictures of a grey card... LOL!
An interesting yet frustrating exercise!
Regards
| hil26 |
| (journeyman) |
| 02/05/2008 16:06 |
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Re: Module 2 - Grey Card Dilemma
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it certainly is an interesting exercise, I am having to wait to repeat my exercise at the moment.
Glad to see my results appear to be no different to others.
Have a good long bank holiday weekend
| saffron |
| (newbie) |
| 03/05/2008 12:08 |
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Re: Module 2 - Grey Card Dilemma
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Quote:Quote:
Have now tried 3 times to do this...
Like you I have now carried out the test multiple times (4 if I'm honest). My experience is similar to yours with slightly different readings at different points of the picture. I have four different sets of results but in none of the tests has the "correct" exposure produced a reading of 128 (plus or minus 15). I have found through changing the setting on the camera in 1/3rd of a stop increments the nearest I can get to 128 is at an exposure between 1/3rd and 2/3rd over the metered reading.
Am I being completely clueless or does this ring true for some others?
Cheers
See my original post which started this thread and Garry's and Angela's replies- they may be of some help/comfort to you. Your experience was very similart mine.
You will see from Garry's reply that whilst your readings may vary from the base line, you are not necessarily going to be marked down provided your submission shows you have understood the purpose and parameters of the exercise and you interpret your results accordingly.
Hope this helps.
Peter
| FatherPie |
| (journeyman) |
| 03/05/2008 12:27 |
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Re: Module 2 - Grey Card Dilemma
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Quote:
Hope this helps.
Peter
Cheers Peter, that's useful thanks - appreciate your help.
Regards
| hil26 |
| (journeyman) |
| 09/05/2008 20:37 |
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Re: Module 2 - Grey Card Dilemma
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At last comp;eted the grey card bit, now have to get out and photograph a landscape
| FatherPie |
| (journeyman) |
| 09/05/2008 21:35 |
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Re: Module 2 - Grey Card Dilemma
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Quote:
At last comp;eted the grey card bit, now have to get out and photograph a landscape
Fingers crossed weather holds for weekend for you!
| cgryce |
| (newbie) |
| 23/06/2008 03:08 |
Re: Module 2 - Grey Card Dilemma a slightly different issue
|
Have read the different posts and have taken my grey card shots with my Nikon D2X. They have not yet been transferred to my PC.
I noticed that when taking the grey card shots my auto-focus kept zooming in and out trying to focus, but unable to do so. I read in my Nikon instruction manual that some subjects which lack contrast can fool the most sophisticated auto-focus system-so I had to turn mine off and use manual focus. Anyone else had this problem?
Also on page 17 of the module handbook, you are advised to use spot metering of the shadow and highlight areas of your landscape pictures. What would happen to the readings if I used Matrix metering instead of spot metering? Am just curious!!!
Chris Gryce
| hil26 |
| (journeyman) |
| 23/06/2008 14:25 |
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Re: Module 2 - Grey Card Dilemma a slightly different issue
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Matrix metering would not give the results required for the module, as it would use its memory banks to find a setting that would suit the image being taken - a sort of average.
It would probably give a good image but not for the course.
Well that's how I understand it anyway
| 4BIKER2 |
| (enthusiast) |
| 23/06/2008 16:14 |
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Re: Module 2 - Grey Card Dilemma a slightly different issue
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I agree with above, the matrix metering will try to balance the lighting.
| Garry McNamara |
| (Snr Tutor/Bongo Banjo) |
| 23/06/2008 18:44 |
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Re: Module 2 - Grey Card Dilemma a slightly different issue
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Yup!
The other point about auto-focus is why I don't bother with auto-focus - not that I only photograph grey cards but I tend to photograph a lot of odd things that confuse auto-focus -
- so I just find I can do it better than the camera. Sometimes the camera does it quite well but that means switching auto-focus on and off all the time and really can't be bothered.
| cgryce |
| (newbie) |
| 24/06/2008 01:31 |
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Re: Module 2 - Grey Card Dilemma a slightly different issue
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Thank you all 3 of you, hil26, Nigel and Gary. Your comments were most helpful.
Chris Gryce
| George_Georgantidis |
| (newbie) |
| 28/06/2008 18:17 |
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Module 2 - Camera problem. Should I proceed with Module 3?
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To Garry McNamara
Hi Garry and firs of all thanks for all your comments and advice tips on your reply back to me for the Module 1. I was getting ready to start my Module 2 when I found out that my camera (Nikon coolpix 5000) does not provide all the options required for full manual operation. I am planning to buy the new Nikon the D 300 by the end of this year but in the mean time should I proceed with Module 3?
Another option would be to by a cheaper model now (the Nikon D 80 or D 60 ) and try to achieve my best result in Module 2.
Please advice and one more many thanks for all your comments positive and negative.
George
| Garry McNamara |
| (Snr Tutor/Bongo Banjo) |
| 29/06/2008 08:31 |
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Re: Module 2 - Camera problem. Should I proceed with Module 3?
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Hello George - which features doesn't it have? As far as I know the Coolpix 5000 has Program and Manual modes, Matrix, Spot and Centre Weighted metering options - that's all you need for module two.
Have a good look at the manual and you should be able to complete module two with the Coolpix,
Garry
| George_Georgantidis |
| (newbie) |
| 29/06/2008 21:13 |
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Re: Module 2 - Camera problem. Should I proceed with Module 3?
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Hi Garry
Many thanks for your advice. I have to admit that I rushed in posting questions to you. Sorry about that indeed. You are absolutely right. The P5000 can do all the settings in manual mode. I just though for a minute that only 5 pre-selected options are available but now after looking the manual I know one can do much more with this little camera.
I am going back to my Module 2 now.
Many thanks again
George
| cgryce |
| (newbie) |
| 09/07/2008 13:08 |
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Re: Module 2 - Grey Card info palette readings for " correct exposure"
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Like quite a few people on this forum, I'm struggling with my grey card shots. My first attempts with a D2x camera and a 5omm F1.4 lens(100ISO)were taken outside. Although for much of the time-it was overcast-the light did change quite a bit.
My "correct exposure" readings(using the info palette) for a shot taken at F8 @ 1/60th were as follows:
R88 G91 B98. I tried taking readings from different parts of the image and these varied slighly from those given. Anyway-these readings are nowhere close to the recommended 128 in each channel.
What else can I do? Am thinking of re-taken the shots indoors at night in my kitchen. No doubt, I'll have to change the White Balance to Fluorescent as I'll be shooting under these lightening conditions.
Any advice much appreciated.
ChrisG.
| Garry McNamara |
| (Snr Tutor/Bongo Banjo) |
| 09/07/2008 13:26 |
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Re: Module 2 - Grey Card info palette readings for " correct exposure"
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Hi, that's really quite under exposed, not always a bad thing but a camera should produce a reasonably accurate representation of the subject is photographs and that isn't. Put another way if your computer screen or printer gave a darker version of everything you would find a way to fix it.
If it’s any help I had two perfect examples shot with Nikon D200s over the weekend so with attention to every variable it is possible. A catch light on the card will throw the results out so make sure it’s not reflecting a brighter light than the whole and is evenly lit.
Secondly you might get better results with more settled artificial light indoors - light can vary quite a bit for instance with changes in cloud density between shots. This is a precise, almost scientific, test so you do need to remove all variables and a cloud going across the sun or twenty seconds passing between your initial reading and the last of your shots can make the whole process meaningless.
If you are going to use a low energy bulb for instance I would turn it on about half an hour before I took the pictures as these get progressively lighter after a short period of use.
If you do in the end discover that your camera is under exposing by a half stop or so then you can apply exposure compensation in future – that’s what we’ve been doing with film for years – pro films even come with the ‘real’ ISO printed on the batch and a good photographer would never simply trust the manufacturer’s figures.
| cgryce |
| (newbie) |
| 09/07/2008 14:44 |
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Re: Module 2 - Grey Card info palette readings for " correct exposure"
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Thank you so much for your prompt reply. I shall try and re-shoot under fluorescent lighting at night in the kitchen and see how I do.
chrisg
| hil26 |
| (journeyman) |
| 10/07/2008 08:55 |
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Re: Module 2 - Grey Card info palette readings for " correct exposure"
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Quick question
metering - matrix or spot, my first results were taken with matrix,and were out, better results were obtained with spot.
just a thought
| Garry McNamara |
| (Snr Tutor/Bongo Banjo) |
| 10/07/2008 21:36 |
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Re: Module 2 - Grey Card info palette readings for " correct exposure"
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If the card is evenly lit it will make not one iota of difference - you could use the spot metering function though to check that it is evenly lit.
Garry
| hil26 |
| (journeyman) |
| 10/07/2008 21:39 |
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Re: Module 2 - Grey Card info palette readings for " correct exposure"
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that's what I meant, but didn't quite say it - LOL
| Garry McNamara |
| (Snr Tutor/Bongo Banjo) |
| 10/07/2008 21:48 |
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Re: Module 2 - Grey Card info palette readings for " correct exposure"
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Ah, I read it as a question and not the useful bit of advice it is!
| Matt_Hunt |
| (Pooh-Bah) |
| 15/07/2008 11:53 |
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Re: Module 2 - Grey Card info palette readings for " correct exposure"
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If shooting under flourescent light, apparently a shutter speed of 1/60 or less helps because the lights flicker at around 60Hz. So using 1/50 sec means you get the full range rather than the early or late part of the flicker.
This has more application when using a combination of flourescent and flash lighting but I am wondering if it is having an effect here?
| Jack0486 |
| (newbie) |
| 22/09/2008 16:34 |
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Re: Module 2 - Grey Card Dilemma
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Hello
I just have a quick question about module 2. It took me a few tests to get to my curent results, which are fine apart from I don't have an image that dips below 10 in each channel. At 1/1000sec I get 11/11/11, should I re-shoot once more or are these results acceptable?? at 1/60th I get 122/122/122 and my last shot before they go above 245 in each channel is 1/15th sec at 225/225/225.
Thanks
Jack
| Garry McNamara |
| (Snr Tutor/Bongo Banjo) |
| 22/09/2008 16:51 |
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Re: Module 2 - Grey Card Dilemma
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Those figures sound pretty good to me - especially the evenness from colour channel to colour channel, I'd be happy to get that,
Garry
| Jack0486 |
| (newbie) |
| 22/09/2008 17:44 |
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Re: Module 2 - Grey Card Dilemma
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Thanks, now just for the landscapes.
Cheers
Jack
| George_Georgantidis |
| (newbie) |
| 01/11/2008 14:26 |
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Please Garry Help!
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Hi Garry
I was busy doing my DOccMed (one more diploma that i am dealing with at the moment) and I left behind my most favorite diploma this one in Photography.
I am now back to Module 2 with the card and the D90 Nikon.
I tried the test many times but I have to admit all the times were indoors as I dont have a garden (leave in a flat ) plus the winds around the area were quite bad so I did not want to delay more the module,
I took 5 pictures at shutter speeds 60,125,250,500,1000 first then I added one more at 2000.
The results I am getting are
in the correct exposure(60) the RGB median is 116 with R97,G114,B137
(probably cause its indoors shooting as I tried it many times and thats all i get)
The 2000 gives RGB8 with R, G and B all around 9
Two stops under exposure and I can still see some details even if the image goes close to be very dark
My problem is that I dont get any image of all the five with values more than the correct exposure so I dont get any with more or around 245
what i do wrong >?
sorry for the stupid question indeed
George